tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10888009194458365962024-03-06T00:51:52.657-05:00Black Cat GardeningBlack Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-9868826321029610802016-03-06T09:57:00.000-05:002016-03-06T09:57:32.718-05:00The New England Winter That Wasn't<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Generally, winters in New England are thought of as snow filled and unbearably cold. The snow in the picture above is more or less the trend for this entire winter. Storms brought dustings or perhaps a couple inches and then warmer weather arrived and the snow disappeared. This pattern happened over and over and although the cold did arrive occasionally, it didn't last. Overall, an excellent winter for those who dislike cold and snow. Not so much an excellent winter for plants and the water table.<br />
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Snow cover acts as an insulator. This helps protect the soil during the freeze/thaw cycle of winter. The ground cools, freezes, warms, and freezes through the winter months. With snow on the ground, plants are offered some protection and stability from the insulating factor of snow. Without it, shallow rooted plants are heaved from the ground as the soil expands and contracts. Perennials and bulbs are especially prone to damage during this time. Broad leaved evergreen plants gain protection from drying winter winds if they're covered by snow. Exposure leads to brown rhododendron and azalea leaves come warmer weather. In addition, snow pack that's allowed to melt slowly adds to rivers, lakes, and the water table gently over time. Rain, on the other hand, quickly enters the environment and then moves through before being able to soak slowly into the water table. Missing this slow gathering of water may lead to dry conditions come spring or even drought. <br />
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Here in southern Vermont the weather in March is more like the weather in April. The upcoming week may even get us close to 70 degrees. The average temperature for this time of year is around 40 degrees. It may hit 67 on Wednesday and then stay in the 50's into the future. Fantastic for spending time outside, not so fantastic for the environment. I'm predicting we'll have a short spring followed quickly by warmer summer-like weather.<br />
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Recommended Plant: The Lupine is a frequently seen roadside plant here in New England. It's tough, grows well in poor soil, and enjoys sunny locations. <i>Lupinus perennis</i> is the common blue variety, although there are many other colors available. Like other plants in the pea family, it is able to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere which allows it to survive in less than stellar soils. In fact, if planted in soil that's too rich the plants tend to become floppy. They are relatively easy to start from seed as long as they have a chance to soak over night prior to planting. Lupine seed also needs stratification, which is a period of cold temperature to promote germination. Most seeds purchased are exposed to cold temperatures but if you collect seeds from the wild you'll want them to spend some time in the fridge to mimic winter temperatures (30 days or so). Some people also abrade the seeds with sandpaper prior to soaking to help them germinate, although I've never had to do this. Although perennial, they're not especially long lived. They dislike transplanting, as once the plant begins to grow they create a carrot like taproot. It's best to choose their permanent home and then leave them to it. The plants will spread via seeds but don't tend to be invasive.<br />
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-6717631050383862102015-09-12T13:45:00.000-04:002015-09-12T13:45:14.960-04:00Signs of Late Summer in New EnglandAlthough summer is coming to an end here in New England, there are still many plants chugging along before the frosts arrive. The yellows of Goldenrod fade as the riot of colors from Asters take over. Various fruit trees and vines found this growing season especially friendly as there were no major hail storms, floods, or late winter storms to deal with. <br />
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This Aster is happily growing next to a riverbank, a parking lot, two dumpsters, and a concrete retaining wall. To say that it's a hardy plant is quite the understatement.</div>
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This smaller flowering Aster is growing right next to the purple one and appears to be thriving.</div>
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This is one of our native wild grapes, possibly <i>Vitis labrusca</i> the Fox Grape, or <i>Vitis riparia</i> the Riverbank Grape or Frost Grape. The fruits are smaller than cultivated grapes and intensely sour. These native grapes were combined with wine grapes to produce the common Concord Grape which is another plant that has escaped into the wild. Concord Grapes ended up being a pretty terrible grape for wine, but are excellent in jams and juice (with lots of added sugars). Birds will eventually claim these grapes, although it did smell like there was some fermentation going on so the birds might end up a bit tipsy in the process.</div>
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It's difficult to figure out the scale of these wild grapes in the photos, but they're about the size of high bush blueberries; the larger blueberries commonly found in the supermarket or at "Pick Your Own" locations.</div>
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Sadly, this photo ended up a bit washed out, but I wanted to include it as it's a perennial herb I wasn't expecting to find (it's also between the river and parking lot where I found the Asters). This is wild mint. The leaves are much smaller than garden grown hybrids, although the scent of the plant is just as large. It tends to grow in damp locations and spreads just like the mints found in gardens, Runners from the parent plant were snaking through the grass and popping up all over. There are a few different wild mints in New England and I'm not exactly certain of the variety in the picture. It could be <i>Mentha canadensis</i> or <i>Mentha arvensis</i> or even <i>Menta aquatica</i> which is an introduced species. Whatever the variety, the smell of it makes me long for some mint tea.</div>
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Recommended Plant: For strong late summer color, few plants beat <i>Eupatorium purpureum</i>. Commonly known as Joe Pye Weed, it starts flowering here in New England in August and lasts well into September depending on the location. This is no shrinking violet and it tends to grow upwards of 4-5 feet with some cultivars growing much higher. The variety known as "Gateway" can easily reach 6 feet and I've seen some specimens closer to 8. Provide the plant with plenty of room, evenly moist soil (Eupatorium does not appreciate dry locations), and full sun. It has few pests or diseases and may in fact become a bit aggressive in locations it's fond of.</div>
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-51984606500536456202015-09-07T07:51:00.000-04:002015-09-07T07:51:20.477-04:00Bittersweet and Honeysuckle: Not so SweetIf there's one plant that has become my nemesis, it is Oriental Bittersweet. The scientific name is Celastrus orbiculatus, and sadly it seems to grow everywhere. It follows me around, sneering and chuckling at me like some surly, angst ridden teenager. Oh it knows how much it annoys me and seems to revel in it. As a climbing vine, Bittersweet is highly effective and will twine up into trees, telephone poles, shrubs, and any stationary object. Removal is especially difficult as it clings and winds about the victim and refuses to let go. Other plants are smothered, power lines are pulled down, and neighborhood pets disappear. Well, the pets know enough to stay away, but your lilacs may not be so lucky.<br />
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Chemical controls on the market work, but it takes multiple applications to fully kill the plant. Digging out the vine by hand is possible and works quite well. Sadly, if enough of the bright orange roots remain behind the vine will regrow. The easiest way to get rid of Bittersweet is to pull it out before it starts climbing. Cutting the vine at the ground will slow it down although this will require vigilance and repeated snipping. <br />
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The leaves are rounded and vary in color from light to dark green depending on growing conditions and moisture. It grows well in sun and shade although shade does seem to slow it down some. The flowers are small and an insignificant whitish color. The berries, on the other hand, are quite attractive with a yellow shell that eventually cracks open to show the meaty orange flesh inside. These berries are so colorful they often turn up in fall decorations thus assisting the plant in spreading further. Birds readily eat the fruit and the seeds germinate at an alarming rate. If you see Bittersweet in a fall wreath or floral arrangement please refrain from purchasing.<br />
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The fruit prior to splitting open and the rounded leaves. This plant was found growing along the Robert Frost Trail in North Bennington, Vermont.</div>
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More leaves and berries.</div>
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Shrub honesuckle, Lonicera species of various types, is a second not so sweet invasive. Unlike Bittersweet, this honesuckle is a shrub and it's not quite as evil. Often planted to form a hedge or to attract birds, this plant has successfully escaped into the wild and now, like Bittersweet, appears almost everywhere. The small flowers appear early in the spring and the rounded green or green/grey leaves appear even earlier. Overall growth is arching in nature as stems of the plant grow upward and outward over time. The plant prefers sunny spots but will tolerate shade. It would prefer evenly moist soil but will also tolerate dry once it is established. The berries it produces are red or orange depending on the species of plant. Since the plant leafs out early in the spring, it is pretty easy to spot. The leaf buds start out looking like small green pencils and then the leaves whorl out.</div>
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Luckily, shrub honesuckle is far, far easier to control. Removing it by hand works quite well, especially when the plants are young. However, even older, established plants can be hacked down and dug out successfully. Chemical controls also work, but since removing the plants by hand works so well I've just taken a shovel to the plants instead. Unfortunately, birds enjoy these fruits and will help spread the seeds far and wide.</div>
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Shrub honeysuckle. Found along the Robert Frost Trail in North Bennington, Vermont.</div>
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Recommended Plants: Asters. The common natives include Aster novi-belgii, the New York Aster and Aster novae-angliae, the New England Aster. There was a time when I wasn't so fond of the sometimes scruffy looking native asters. Over time, however, I've come to enjoy their variety and their burst of late summer color. Asters come in many shapes from the more manicured looking "Purple Dome" variety, to the tall, floppy, wild natives. Flower colors appear in various shades of purple, pink, red, and white. They grow best in sunny spots with well drained soil. If too shaded, they tend to become floppy and damp locations will invite the fungus powdery mildew. Heights range from a foot or less to upwards of three or four feet.</div>
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Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-6882295713086758382015-08-17T11:13:00.000-04:002015-08-17T11:13:39.929-04:00Escaping from the Garden: Purple Loosestrife and Tansy.Sadly, some of the plants we enjoy most just aren't good news. They bring baggage. Yes, they're lovely to look at but the next thing you know they're taking over wetlands or chasing other plants from your garden or making threats against the hydrangeas. Yes, they're invasive and it's all your fault. Well, no, not you particularly, but somewhere in the past gardeners planted some unfriendly (albeit at the time potentially useful) neighbors.<br />
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The first I'll mention is Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria). It was introduced first in the 1800's and became a garden ornamental as well as a medicinal. Then it started plans for world domination. The edges of waterways become tinged with a purple haze of flowers when it blooms in mid-summer. Looks lovely, but the plant chokes out all other plant life around it. Cold weather doesn't seem to slow it down much as I've viewed it happily growing in Maine and along waterways in the Green Mountains of Vermont. There are chemical controls, of course, but using them near water is especially risky. Biological controls are also available and they do appear somewhat successful. Given the massive number of acres now invaded it will take a great deal of effort to reign this plant in. This perennial was once a recommended garden plant and it is found in gardening books of the past (including one of the Victory Garden books; <i>Crockett's Flower Garden</i>, from 1981).<br />
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This picture of Loosestrife was taken at Red Mill Pond in Woodford, Vermont. Want to learn more about this plant? Check out: http://www.invasive.org/weeds/loosestrifebook.pdf<br />
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Another plant that seems to be attempting a hostile takeover is Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare). Once planted as a useful medicinal and scented herb, it managed an escape and now turns up in many places it doesn't belong. The fern like foliage is thick and lush and the yellow button flowers are attractive. Sadly, it's tenacious, and much like the roadside daylily, it grows along roadsides and in areas where soil is not tilled. In fact, tilling the soil where Tansy shows up is one method of control. The foliage has a distinct spicy and herby scent, reminiscent of mint combined with Sweet Fern (Comptonia peregrina). The plant is poisonous to livestock and some people react badly to it if ingested. It was used as a culinary herb, an abortificant, packing material to help prevent meat spoilage, insecticide, and as a coffin stuffer to help prevent unwanted smells (according to Wikipedia). So here's a perennial that has potential use in the herb garden but just likes to wander a bit too much. Although not as invasive as Loosestrife, it does tend to crop up all over the place.<br />
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Both of these photos were taken at Hogback Mountain in Marlboro, Vermont. It looked quite pleased with itself growing on this hillside. Closer to home, I've seen Tansy springing up through pavement right next to the parent plant. It's nothing if not determined. Want to learn more? Check out this USDA document from Montana: http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_PLANTMATERIALS/publications/mtpmstn7819.pdf<br />
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Recommended Plant: Alchemilla molllis, or Lady's Mantle. It grows as a low mound of folded leaves, similar to a cloak or mantle from wardrobe collections of years past. The greenish flowers mix well with other colors and the overall habit of the plant is similar to a ground cover. Perhaps the best aspect of the plant are the leaves. When wet, water droplets collect and bead up on the leaves. The plant is tough and will grow along walkways with little trouble. Unlike the other plants mentioned in the post, it's not especially invasive although in some situations it will self sow readily (personally, I've never found this to be the case). <br />
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-80435289035579360402015-08-08T08:12:00.001-04:002015-08-08T08:13:29.859-04:00Roadside DayliliesThe roadside daylily isn't a native plant. It appears with such frequency, however, that it is now appears to belong. Sadly, in some places it is quite invasive and difficult to get rid of. Hemerocallis fulva grows along roadsides, in ditches, near salt water, next to old foundations, and just about anywhere it pleases. Although it prefers full sun it will also perform admirably in shade. This massive grouping was found along a sheltered bay in Harpswell, Maine. The salty ocean was just a matter of fifteen feet away. These daylilies were thriving.<br />
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Recommended Plant: Thalictrum rochebrunianum. Flowering in summer, this meadow rue send up flower stalks that are 4-6'. The leaves of the plant stay closer to the ground. The leaves are similar to columbine and blue-green in color. It is apparently deer resistant as well, which makes it attractive in certain locations. This meadow rue does best in full sun and rich soil. It is best planted in groupings to create a mass of the airy flowers. One variety goes by the name "Lavender Mist" which is fitting, given the flowers.<br />
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-82531162437400489092014-02-20T23:45:00.001-05:002014-02-20T23:45:22.305-05:00Recommended Gardening Books The last time I recommended gardening books, I looked back at my history with gardening and love for plants. This time around the choices are more about specific plants and reference choices, rather than nostalgia. Because I'm a packrat when it comes to books, I tend to collect all different kinds and some of the following choices are no longer in print. Luckily, used bookstores, libraries and even internet sources will have them (no especially rare books here). <br />
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Daylilies are some of my favorite perennials and I've collected a number of books that focus on them specifically. There are two books I've come to refer to more than the others and I consider them important additions to any collection.<br />
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1. <i>The New Encyclopedia of Daylilies: More than 1700 Outstanding Selections</i>, by Ted L. Petit and John P. Peat. The title tells it all, really, it's a massive collection of daylilies from species plants (the originals), to early hybrids, to more modern selections. Chances are, if you're looking for information about a specific plant, you'll find some here. Each description lists if the plant is evergreen, semievergreen, or dormant and also includes plant height, flower size, and bloom time. Many pictures accompany the descriptions and they are fantastic. I must say, many of the more modern hybrids are a bit too fluffy for my tastes (looking more like a hibiscus than a daylily). Overall, it's one of my most commonly used resources.<br />
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2. <i>Daylilies: The Wild Species and Garden Clones, Both Old and New, of the Genus Hemerocallis</i>, by A.B. Stout. The copy I own is the 1986 reprint edition. Although not nearly as impressive in scope as the first book I've listed, this book has proven valuable for the information it has on early hybrids. There are a number of early plants that just aren't seen in the trade these days and being something of a plant preservationist, I'm interested in learning more about these older varieties. Stout did a lot of early work on hybridizing daylilies and his work certainly paved the way for more modern hybridization. Sadly, the book is out of print now, but not that difficult to track down. <br />
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<b>Other Useful Titles:</b> <br />
<i>Hemerocallis: The Daylily</i>, by R.W. Munson (Another important grower, more recent than Stout, his daylilies are known for their special eye zones and water marks). Currently out of print, but easily obtainable online.<br />
<i>The Gardener's Guide to Growing Daylilies</i>, by Diana Grenfell. Excellent book. Out of print, but easily obtainable online.<br />
<i>Daylilies: The Perfect Perennial</i>, by Lewis and Nancy Hill. Another excellent choice. Currently in print.<br />
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Perennials are an especially important addition to the garden as they offer up colors and textures throughout the growing season (and sometimes even in winter). Some are especially common now, while others rest by the wayside waiting to be rediscovered. Other perennials are just difficult to grow in the average garden and need more tending than most are willing to provide. So how do you choose which varieties to add to your garden (besides daylilies, of course)?<br />
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1. <i>The Well Tended Perennial Garden: Planting and Pruning Techniques</i>, by Tracy DiSabato-Aust. I just purchased this book in January of 2013 after seeing it as a recommended book in a copy of "Gardens Illustrated" magazine. Since then, I've read from it a number of times and consider it an essential addition to any gardening library. The author discusses everything from planning out the garden, to revitalizing an existing garden, to general maintenance such as pruning and dividing. There's also a lengthy plant encyclopedia at the back. The book is in print and should be easy to obtain.<br />
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2. <i>Understanding Perennials: A New Look at an Old Favorite</i>, by William Cullina. Unlike general purpose books on perennials, this one starts off focusing more on botany and explains the reasons why perennial plants are the way they are. It also discusses plant pests, diseases, and has some excellent pictures of dividing perennials. This book has the most in depth information I've come across that's written in a user friendly way. It is still in print.<br />
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3. <i>The Explorer's Garden: Rare and Unusual Perennials</i>, by Daniel J. Hinkley. The author of this book focuses on specific plant families and the less common varieties within those families. There's an especially interesting section on <i>Epimedium </i>(a fantastic plant for shade), and other entries of plants native to North America. The book was originally published in 1999, so some of the plants mentioned aren't quite as rare as they once were. The entries are enjoyable to read and there are many perennials listed that I'd like to add to my own collection at some point. This book is still in print.<br />
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<b>Other Useful Titles:</b><br />
<i>Taylor's Guide to Perennials: More than 600 Flowering and Foliage Plants, Including Ferns and Ornamental Grasses</i>, by Barbara Ellis. An excellent book for beginners which includes great plant descriptions. In print.<br />
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There was a time when I scoffed at the idea of using native plants. There were just too many far more interesting plants out there. Over time, my opinion changed; especially when I realized that many native plants are fantastic additions to the garden and will often grow where other plants will not.<br />
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1. <i>Wildflowers: A Guide to Growing and Propagating Native Flowers of North America</i>, by William Cullina. Sadly, this book is out of print. However, if you're interested in native wildflowers it's an essential text. It offers an encyclopedic list of plants that includes basic plant descriptions along with the best methods of propagation. Sadly, some of our native wildflowers are especially difficult to propagate, but even those are included here.<br />
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2. <i>Native Plants of the Northeast: A Guide for Gardening and Conservation</i>, by Donald J. Leopold. This is an excellent overall guide to native plants of the northeast. It focuses on all types of natives, from flowers to trees and provides information about growing conditions and even propagation. Best of all are the lists at the back of the book which categorize plants by their preferences. If you're looking for plants that grow in dry conditions, there's a thorough list. This book is in print.<br />
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<b>Other Useful Titles:</b><br />
<i>Orchids of New England and New York</i>, by Tom Nelson and Eric Lamont. My experience with native orchids was limited to our common lady slippers. Then I found this book and discovered that New England has many different native orchids. An excellent book for identifying these plants should you encounter them on a hike or walk. This book is in print.<br />
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Trees and shrubs are the backbone of a landscape. Luckily, there's one book that basically covers it all...<br />
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1. <i>Dirr's Encyclopedia of Trees and Shrubs</i>, by Michael A. Dirr. If there were just one book on trees and shrubs to collect, this would be it. I've referred to various editions of this book an incredible number of times. It is more expensive than some of the books I've recommended, but it is jam packed with information and color photographs. It's also possible to still find copies of a previous edition, <i>Dirr's Hardy Trees and Shrubs: An Illustrated Encyclopedia</i>, which is also excellent. He's also written the <i>Manual of Woody Landscape Plants: Their Identification, Ornamental Characteristics, Culture, Propagation and Uses</i>. This is essentially his textbook on trees and shrubs. It does not contain color photographs, but does have excellent descriptions. For most gardeners, however, this manual is not required. I still have my 1993 edition of the manual which I purchased back when in the nursery business and do refer to it from time to time.<br />
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There are many additional books to recommend, but I think this is where I'll stop for now. These books should keep an intrepid gardener busy for quite some time.<br />
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Recommended Plant: <i>Porteranthus</i> <i>trifoliatus</i>. Also known as Bowman's Root and formerly listed as <i>Gillenia</i>. This native perennial creates a billowing mound of white, star shaped flowers. Once it finishes flowering, the small seed heads offer visual interest and the foliage keeps well throughout the summer. In fall, the leaves and stems turn yellow. There is a pink flowering version of the plant as well, although I'm not certain it's a version that appears in the wild. It prefers full sun or partial shade and average soil moisture. <br />
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-7046037667144677222014-02-16T12:06:00.000-05:002014-02-16T12:06:25.313-05:00Everyone's Favorite Poison--Poison IvyWinter is proving especially difficult this year. The cold and relentless snow force thoughts of gardening, or even of being outside, far to the back burner. Of course, there's one certain plant that will most likely thrive come spring, no matter how horrid the winter. It might appear as a shrub, or vine, or small sapling, yet the rash it provides to many is frequently the same. Poison ivy is decidedly unwelcome in any garden and probably in any yard. Even the scientific name sounds like something you'd rather shoo away than find growing: <i>Toxicodendron radicans.</i><br />
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I've seen this dastardly plant often enough so that it's easy to identify. Unfortunately, it doesn't always follow the same growth pattern and it's possible to overlook the leaves until you're standing among them. It produces clusters of 3 leaves, sometimes they are a bit jagged at the edge, and other times they are smooth. New growth tends to have a deep reddish cast and the fall colors are remarkably striking at times; being a combination or yellow, orange, red, and burgundy all on the same plant. The flowers are small, whitish green, and difficult to spot. More often than not, the plant will not produce flowers unless it is able to vine upwards. The fruits are favored by birds and start out pale green and slowly ripen to a pale milky greenish-white. Alas, the plant also spreads via runners and can root into the soil wherever a stem touches down. <br />
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Once the plant begins to climb, the overall appearance changes slightly. The leaves are still in clusters of 3, but the way it vines about makes it appear to be a different plant. Poison ivy is a tenacious climber and can easily reach the tops of trees or telephone poles.<br />
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How does it manage this expert climbing? Well, it grows small aerial roots that cling to rough surfaces such as bark, wood, or stone. <br />
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Here it is, happily climbing away.<br />
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When plants are young, or runners first start to appear in the spring, they look quite a bit like the saplings of trees. They are especially dangerous at this point as you might not recognize them as poison ivy at all, particularly if they are in the reddish new growth stage. I almost stepped into this patch without even noticing it was there. <br />
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So, you have this fiend making an appearance at your party and what do you do? How does one get rid of a rash inducing pest like this? There are chemical controls, although I've found they have a mixed success rate. Additionally, even if the plant is dead, the oils that cause the oh so lovely skin rashes do not degrade quickly. It is still possible to find the oils on plants that are many years dead (I've read that it can be up to 25 years). Chemical controls work best when leaves are out, but prior to them hardening off during summer--the leaves take on a more waxy appearance once the new growth has stopped growing. Also, these products seem to work best when the plant also gets a fair amount of sunlight. I've seen poison ivy in shady locations laugh off herbicides that worked fine on plants growing in sunnier spots. Mechanical controls seem to be the better option as long as the gardener wears gloves and is willing to immediately wash clothing in extra hot water and soap. Shoes will also carry the oils, so be careful. Shovels, rakes, pitchforks, axes, and gas powered machinery are all possibilities. Be aware, however, that lawnmowers or bush hogs can cut and spray the plant oils about. Personally, I've found a mixture of herbicides and judicious use of a shovel to be the best method of control (don't think I've ever won the battle, but did manage to keep the plants under control).<br />
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Whatever you do, don't set fire to the plants. The oil can become airborne and deposit itself into eyes, sinus passages, and lungs.<br />
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Goats are an excellent all natural control. They aren't bothered by the oils and find the plants pretty tasty. In fact, a school in Reading, Vermont is using goats to control poison ivy that was creeping into their playground. <a href="http://digital.vpr.net/post/goats-rid-reading-school-poison-ivy" target="_blank">http://digital.vpr.net/post/goats-rid-reading-school-poison-ivy</a><br />
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Other animals, however, can easily spread the oils. If your dog or cat wanders into a patch of poison ivy, they might need an immediate bath in warm soapy water. I remember being told a story about a woman and her beloved Jeep. Unfortunately, while on a hike with her dog one day, the dog went rambling about through poison ivy. The dog enjoyed the ride home and managed to deposit the oils all over the fabric seats of the Jeep. Alas, the Jeep's owner kept contracting poison ivy and couldn't figure out why, until she finally remembered that summer walk. Eventually, she had to scrub down the interior of the Jeep with hot soapy water and even then was unsure she'd gotten everything safe. At the time I was told the story she was considering selling the Jeep but was feeling a bit leery about giving someone a special surprise. <br />
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So, no matter how cold and snowy or even dry and warm your winter may be, there's a certain unwelcome guest who doesn't mind what the weather throws and will appear reinvigorated come spring.<br />
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Recommended Plant: <i>Abutilon </i>Common Name: Flowering Maple<br />
Ok, I'm cheating a bit here since this is an indoor plant as opposed to tree/shrub/perennial. But this annoying winter weather needs a bit of bright color to counteract the gloom. Flowering maples are fairly easy to care for. The leaves do look similar to a maple but the flower looks completely different. They like a warm, sunny location and regular watering. They will not tolerate drying out, but at the same time don't enjoy constantly wet feet. Some varieties turn a bit gangly and need pruning on occasion while others grow more compactly. There are many variations in flower color and growth habit. It's an excellent houseplant addition.<br />
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-2462924015724900482013-01-16T10:56:00.004-05:002013-01-16T10:59:04.252-05:00The Winter Garden<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I’ve been busy as of late and haven’t had the time to make a
proper gardening post. Reading, drooling
over pictures in catalogs, and longing for spring are the few gardening related
activities there’s time for. One post in
particular was lurking in the back of my mind and I’ve finally had time to work
on it. Winter this season has been something
of a dud, once again. Central
Massachusetts has experienced mostly mild temperatures and only three snow
events with over a couple inches of snow (and even snow amounts have varied
based upon location). This means that
visiting gardens in December or January are actually somewhat pleasant
experiences as opposed to arduous trials that end in frost bite and teams of
rescuers (I kid, I’ve never needed a team of rescuers—although a Saint Bernard
with a cask of brandy is always a welcome sight). The winter garden is an interesting place at
a time when plants display other characteristics. One should plan a garden and think of the
winter landscape as well as the summer height of color.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Some plants are valuable for the leaves they hold on to
through the winter, others for interesting bark. Still others hold onto their fruit well into
the depths of winter until birds finally get around to them. Shrubs and perennials may provide interesting
seed pods or spent flower heads. Each
option is a valuable addition to any garden and the plants I review below work
well throughout most of New England and points south with only one or two
having more delicate sensibilities in especially cold weather.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i>Leucothoe fontanesiana</i>
‘Scarletta’ is a fairly common evergreen used for interest year round. It has white flowers in the spring and acts
as an excellent ground cover in shaded spots or areas with mixed light. The winter colors and textures however, are especially
important for the gardener. New growth
is reddish in color and fall/winter leaf color is a deep, reddish purple. Protection from winter winds is required and plants
generally won’t tolerate a full sun exposure (although your mileage may vary). It can
spread when stems root into the ground and may need to be kept in check by
occasional digging out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Another useful evergreen is <i>Microbiota decussata</i>.
Although it looks similar to many junipers, the foliage is soft and the
plant tolerates a wider range of conditions.
It does best in somewhat shaded spots, although I’ve also seen it
planted in full sun. The green foliage
looks fantastic during the growing season, but in the fall the color changes to
a mix of bronze and tan. To me, mass
plantings look like a giant, sleeping muppet just waiting to rise up. When I first encountered this plant I wasn’t
so sure about it, but seeing it planted in drifts make it quite impressive,
especially in winter.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwBrIsdMbzqLjpT5o_0NvfAVlgPkSkk6iNBvzdhdHxB18JVI56Isj7-72DZOs2Hke12oMG6pguMcnny3YCMTYcp9QeiHO5PyojKdlqkBEOVU5-_2Gb6vajCazwY3eLXNV-aH82P_r2NkH/s1600/IMG_0495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwBrIsdMbzqLjpT5o_0NvfAVlgPkSkk6iNBvzdhdHxB18JVI56Isj7-72DZOs2Hke12oMG6pguMcnny3YCMTYcp9QeiHO5PyojKdlqkBEOVU5-_2Gb6vajCazwY3eLXNV-aH82P_r2NkH/s320/IMG_0495.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">New England is home to a fantastic creeping groundcover that
tolerates all kinds of conditions, looks great in the winter, and has a
fantastic name; <i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif";">Arctostaphylos
uva-ursi</span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">.
Also known as “Kinnikinnik” or “Bear Berry” this low lying evergreen plant
produces white or light pink flowers in spring, offers up red cranberry like
fruit in summer, and turns varying shades of reddish purple during the
winter. Given the kind of winter we’ve
had, the plants in this picture aren’t in their most interesting color
range. I’ve seen this plant growing near
the Quabbin Reservoir, scampering along rocky cliff faces and basically growing
where nothing else would make an attempt. The winter color on these plants tends to be deep
reddish purple. If you’re looking for an especially tough
ground cover, one with winter interest, give Bear Berry a try.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">Speaking of berries, some
fruiting plants will hold onto fruit for a lengthy period during the colder
months. Eventually, birds or other
animals will get to them, but while they last they’re an excellent addition to
the winter garden. Take “Winterberry” for
example, or </span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif";">Ilex
verticillata</span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">.
This is a native, deciduous holly that has a range of berry colors from
deep red to orange to yellow or even white.
It does prefer moist soil and to get berries you’ll need both male and
female plants in fairly close proximity.
Given the right conditions, however, it is a spectacular plant in the
winter. The variety in the picture is a
variety known as ‘Winter Gold’ and has yellow berries.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">Viburnums also hold onto their
fruit and the one in the picture was practically glowing when I came across
it. It is a ‘Linden Viburnum’ or </span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif";">Viburnum dilitatum </span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">‘Asian Beauty.’
This Viburnum originally hails from China and Japan and will tolerate
sun or light shade. It eventually turns
into a fairly large shrub, reaching heights of 10 or 12 feet, but has a more
upright growth habit than some other Viburnums.
The flowers are white and the fruit is varying shades of red. A native substitute would be </span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif";">Viburnum trilobum</span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">, or the’ American Cranberry Viburnum.’</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">If you’re looking for interesting
bark and textures, the Oak Leaved Hydrangea or </span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif";">Hydrangea quercifolia</span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;"> is an excellent choice. It is a native shrub and does best in mixed
light, although more direct sunlight will produce stronger fall foliage
colors. The white flowers are fantastic
during summer, the large green leaves look somewhat prehistoric, and in winter
it’s possible to view the peeling bark.
It is hardy into zone 5, although some cultivars seem to be less hardy
than others. It tends to form colonies
and will, over time, form a fairly dense shrub.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">So, these are some great shrubs
to consider for the winter garden. My
next post will cover perennials. All of
these plants are readily available at garden centers and none of them are
especially difficult to grow. I promise
to be better about posting, as well; perhaps I should have that Saint Bernard
rescue me from responsibilities occasionally.
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">Recommended Plant: </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-style: normal;">Cornus sericea ‘Kelseyi’ or Dwarf
Redosier Dogwood. I’d never seen this
cultivar previously, but found it happily growing near the parking lot and
entrance to Tower Hill Botanic Gardens.
The small red stems looked great and it was looking like a small
forest. Like other shrub dogwoods it is
especially hardy although it does need soil more on the moist side. It may also require some roping in, as shrub
dogwoods tend to grow somewhat exuberantly if conditions are right and will
spread their stems outward in colonies. I expect it would look great next to a
flagstone walkway, where the red stems would show up especially well near the
stone. </span></i></span></div>
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Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-47539545756421539582012-08-15T14:48:00.000-04:002012-08-15T14:48:07.723-04:00Rambunctious RagweedIt's been quite the hot and dry summer here in central Massachusetts. Trees are starting to show signs of drought stress with leaves turning lighter green and/or showing fall colors early. Thunderstorms roll through occasionally, but a sustained gentle rain is what is needed most. Unfortunately a few less desirable plants have done quite well this summer including poison ivy (a topic for my next post) and ragweed (<span dir="auto"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ambrosia artemisiifolia</span>)</i></span>. Ragweed is the bane of summer allergy sufferers. The pollen it produces it light and readily floats about in the air. Goldenrod blooms at the same time, generally, and is sometimes blamed for the work of ragweed. The showy yellow flowers must remind people that pollen and flowers go together. In fact, if you go to Google Images and type in "ragweed" there are pictures of goldenrod mixed in. Ragweed's flowers are greenish and insignificant. In fact, the whole plant is camouflaged in green. Unless you know what it looks like, it can sit lurking in the background unnoticed.<br />
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This extremely happy ragweed plant is about 3' tall and equally as wide. It's growing outside my apartment building between pavement and a wooden deck. The site gets a full dose of south facing sunlight. It's pretty obvious that the plant absolutely loves this location. I've known it was there but didn't pay all that much attention to it until today. It's positively huge, in full flower, and looks ready to take on the world (I wish I had half of its ambitions).<br />
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Recommended Plant:<br />
<em>Campanula latifolia</em>--the Large Bellflower or Great Bellflower, is a fantastic perennial for summer color. The blue, bell shaped flowers appear as early as late June here in southern New England and the plant will send up flower stalks into September/early October depending on the season. It grows best in full sun or part shade and will tolerate poorer soils once established. Powdery mildew can be an issue and the plant spreads fairly readily if conditions are right becoming somewhat invasive. Luckily, the plants are easy enough to remove and/or replant elsewhere. This picture was taken in southern Vermont at the end of June. Recently, on a day trip back to the same location, there were still plants sending up flower stalks; a pretty impressive flowering period.<br />
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Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-46392671184414076132012-08-11T11:51:00.002-04:002012-08-11T11:51:41.074-04:00Visiting VermontA vacation in Vermont happened recently and it affirmed a desire to move there and begin farming, gardening, and enjoying the scenery. Gardens in Vermont often follow practical and decorative patterns. There are lilacs near the house, roses along the fence, multiple apple trees, the herb garden, blueberry bushes, and tall garden phlox offers up major color. Banks of daylilies drift between the apple and pear trees. It's an almost pragmatic approach combining what the gardener needs (fruit, herbs, or vegetables) with what the gardener wants (flowers, scents, colors). During my ramblings I came across a couple interesting daylilies at the Billings Farm Museum. It's a fantastic place to visit, particularly if you are interested in farming or Vermont history. Throughout the grounds there are multiple plantings and unfortunately, there were no identification labels.<br />
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This daylily, for example, was pretty interesting. The colors were pastel pinks with some orange/yellow mixed in to the point where some of the petals almost seemed tan. <br />
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This one, on the other hand, looked familiar, but I couldn't quite place it. <br />
<br />
All over the place there were stands of the native "Cup Plant" or <em>Silphium perfoliatum</em>. I enjoy this plant quite a bit as it almost appears prehistoric when you get close to it. The large leaves have cup like depressions where they meet the stem and these collect water. The flowers tower over the landscape and the plant's growth is so thick it actually works as a screening plant.<br />
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Plymouth Notch, Vermont is a place my father absolutely adores. Growing up I didn't quite understand this, but now that I've returned a number of times I totally agree. The Calvin Coolidge museum is located here and there are a number of historically significant buildings. Also, there's the Top of the Notch tea shop where Ms. Aldrich used to rent out small cabins and sell/serve tea. My parents rented cabins here once, when I was little and I fondly remember Ms. Aldrich working outside with her roses. The cabins are no longer rentable, but three of them still stand along with the gardens.<br />
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The tea house where Ms. Aldrich ran her tea room/gift shop.<br />
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The cabins.<br />
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Hostas and daylilies planted along the general store in Plymouth Notch.<br />
<br />
Woodstock Vermont has one of the most photographed covered bridges in the state. The entire town is quite scenic and even one alleyway in particular had window boxes filled with begonias.<br />
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There were also flowers planted in boxes on the railings of one of the bridges.<br />
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This next picture is a view into the side yard of a home about a block away from the main street. The cast iron furniture just fit the scene perfectly.<br />
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So if the opportunity ever arises, I cannot recommend a visit to Vermont enough. The summer gardens are fantastic, the scenery is amazing (in any season), and like me, you may be tempted to extend the vacation into a permanent visit.<br />
<br />
Recommended Plant: <em>Monarda fistulosa </em>or Wild Bergamot or Bee Balm.<br />
This native plant grows throughout much of North America and is an excellent butterfly attractor. Just like other plants in the mint family, it has square stems and spreads via runners beneath the ground. Unlike some Monarda found in garden centers, the flower color is more pastel and subdued which lends itself to blending in well with other flowers. <br />
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<br />
<strong>An Aside:</strong> Last year Vermont suffered major damage from Hurricane Irene. Flooding took out bridges, roads, homes, and businesses. Historic covered bridges were damaged or torn away by the torrents of water. Although much of the damage has been repaired, there is still work to be done. If you're interested in helping, check out:<br />
<a href="http://www.vtfloodresponse.org/Default.aspx">http://www.vtfloodresponse.org/Default.aspx</a><br />
Or<br />
<a href="http://vtstrong.vermont.gov/">http://vtstrong.vermont.gov/</a><br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-48269527883634602022012-07-16T10:58:00.000-04:002012-07-16T10:58:16.403-04:00Gardening with Books.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Gardening became an interest of mine long before I was
actually conscious of it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My parents
told stories of growing up on farms and of one relative in particular who had
an obsession with pansies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This aunt
would start pansies from seed each year and then toil endlessly in the garden
all summer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She also had heart troubles
and would frequently skip out on tasks like laundry or housework in general,
yet be out on her hands and knees on the hottest summer day gardening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I kind of respect her approach.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>While
a child I spent a great deal of time in the outdoors, basically because my
mother would tire of me messing up the house and say, “Why don’t you go spend
some time outside?” while pushing me out the door.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Local swamps and forests became my regular
hangouts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the same time, I developed
a love of reading.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eventually these two
interests would cross and I started to collect books on gardening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>So,
what books shaped my interest in plants?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Well, quite a few over the years, but much of my early interest was
colored by the PBS series “The Victory Garden.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>My parents enjoyed the show and because of this, so did I.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Books based on the series eventually entered
into my addiction and my full blown horticultural disease was born.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were other books, of course, and many
other plants along the way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This post is
dedicated to these texts filled with plant knowledge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, many of these books are out of
print but they are easily accessible via used bookstores and/or the internet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Masters
of the Victory Garden: Specialty Gardeners Share Their Expert Techniques</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By Jim Wilson.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This book is probably to blame for my
interest in daylilies and wildflowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Each chapter focuses on a specific plant type and the specialists who
focus on growing them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">2.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Crockett’s Flower Garden</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By James Underwood Crockett.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unlike the other Victory Garden book, this
one focuses on the flower garden month by month.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Annuals, perennials and biennials are all
discussed as well as important information such as how to divide
perennials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, one of the
recommended perennials is purple loosestrife (although the book was originally
published in 1981, prior to the loosestrife invasion).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">3.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Green Trigger Fingers</i>.<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></i>By
John Sherwood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the first in a
series of horticultural themed murder mysteries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sherwood worked, and wrote, for the BBC and
then started writing a couple series of books.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I’m not sure when I first encountered his books, but I was drawn to them
for the descriptions of the English countryside as well as for the plant
information.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They’re all pretty light
reading, yet the horticulture is interesting and it’s probably this book I owe
an interest in primroses to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">4.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Beautiful Madness</i>. James Dodson.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a more recent book, from 2006, but it
sums up extremely well what gardening is and how it impacts people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The author spent many years writing about
golf courses, but found time to visit local gardens as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His own garden in Maine became an obsession
and he found himself driven by the “beautiful madness.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although out of print, this book has a nice
entry at his website: </span><a href="http://www.jamesdodsonauthor.com/"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Calibri;">http://www.jamesdodsonauthor.com</span></a><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">5.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Hardy Roses:</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">An Organic Guide to Growing Frost and Disease Resistant Varieties</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By Robert Osbourne and Beth Powning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There’s just something about roses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, that something is often
disappointment here in New England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Those perfectly formed Tea roses just don’t enjoy winters in New England
all that much.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My first attempts with
roses met with disaster.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This book
changed all that, particularly since it lays out planting and pruning extremely
clearly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The roses recommended are
fantastically tough and this book helped foster my interest in old garden
roses, which tend to be more durable and often have fantastic scent.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">6.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A Small Farm in Maine</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By Terry Silber.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In this book, the author and her husband
leave the world they know behind in order to farm in Maine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Herbs are a major focus of their business and
the book details their beginnings and eventual retail shop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This book totally drew me in and I strongly
wished I could have done the same.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Unfortunately the author passed away in 2003 and the farm itself shut
down operations in 2006.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They also wrote
the book <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Growing Herbs and Vegetables:
From Seed to Harvest</i>, in 1999 although I’ve not read it as of yet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">7.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A Year at North Hill</i>: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Four Seasons in a Vermont Garden</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By Joe Eck and Wayne Winterrowd.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>North Hill is an amazing garden and I hope to
actually visit it at some point soon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Joe Eck and Wayne Winterrowd created a garden that challenged the idea
that gardening in Vermont was a limited prospect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They used the land well and fully understood
their site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because of this, they managed
to get plants to survive through Vermont winters that many said would
fail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not only did the plants survive,
the garden expanded and grew into something remarkable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wayne Winterrowd has passed away and work has
begun to turn North Hill into a hybrid botanic garden/learning center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="http://www.northhillgarden.com/"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Calibri;">http://www.northhillgarden.com/</span></a><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">8.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Landscaping with Herbs.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By Jim Wilson.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An excellent book for adding herbs to the
garden (or to containers).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It doesn’t
have nitty gritty information about herbs, but instead offers up design
ideas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pictures and suggestions are
fantastic and I refer to this book often when looking for ideas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Recommended Plant:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hemerocallis “Siloam Frosted Mint.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I encountered this daylily at Tower Hill
Botanic Gardens and was immediately taken by the large iridescent yellow
flowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was quite a robust plant
overall and had a number of buds waiting to open.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m expecting it will end up in my garden at
some point.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwNfc9vZ71JhF05KUR9qJkbMB80OMIc1XE2dNTsva_MdvDwNVP9ZLXDF4BAS9D7Kdl1kye1zrj366UkaBCx0iE_YFiy4obvEoiqNk-XngyHMuuUPQd2OXKJdhGJLBVl5zZpMiVndcl449p/s1600/Siloam+Frosted+Mint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwNfc9vZ71JhF05KUR9qJkbMB80OMIc1XE2dNTsva_MdvDwNVP9ZLXDF4BAS9D7Kdl1kye1zrj366UkaBCx0iE_YFiy4obvEoiqNk-XngyHMuuUPQd2OXKJdhGJLBVl5zZpMiVndcl449p/s320/Siloam+Frosted+Mint.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-50157354222577017112012-07-11T22:00:00.000-04:002012-07-11T22:00:09.551-04:00Designing For The Future<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">One of the design tactics that
has bothered me the most over the years (I know, I know, it’s all about the
complaining) is packing a plan full of plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sure, the planting looks fantastic for the first few years, but then it
soon becomes an overgrown mass of festering evil sprawling over the front
lawn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve seen a design chock full of evergreen
azaleas, boxwood, a weeping cherry, and various broad leaved
rhododendrons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It looked great on paper
and was probably spectacular the first few years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cherry, however, was planted only about
10’ off the corner of the house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
azaleas were packed in extremely close to one another.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boxwood flanked the front door and the
rhododendrons were beneath the living room windows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, it had disaster written all
over it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It is
extremely important when designing to plan with the future in mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Plants will not stay the same size they are
when purchased.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many plants do not approve of
heavy pruning and even if they do it often takes a careful hand to cut
correctly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cherry in that design was
the Weeping Higan Cherry, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Prunus
subhirtella Pendula</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This tree grows
quickly and can reach a height of 30’ and has arching branches that reach
outward 30’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve seen mature specimens
flanking the entrance to a park and they towered over the entry road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is not a delicate and small weeping
plant; it’s a real bruiser once it gets growing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Years ago, a customer asked me about
purchasing one as they wanted it to grow beneath their dining room window.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The window was about 5’ off the ground and
their intent was to plant the cherry there for birds to perch on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were totally convinced they’d be able to
pull it off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the while I was
envisioning the tree inviting itself in for dinner by crashing through the
window.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The fun doesn’t stop with the
weeping cherry in that plan, however.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
azaleas in the design would eventually be shaded out by the cherry if they didn’t
grow into each other prior.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Boxwood, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Buxus sempervirens</i> in this case,
although easy to prune and shape, does require this maintenance yearly if
planted next to a doorway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Further,
Common Boxwood has a certain…odor reminiscent of feral male cats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Broad leaved rhododendrons, generally
speaking, grow fairly large (8-12’ or more and equally as wide).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They’re not a good choice for planting
beneath windows (unless a dwarf variety is used which I will mention in a
future post).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So, what can a gardener do to
avoid a hostile horticultural takeover?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>First, research your plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
internet or your local library offer excellent gardening information.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ultimate heights, widths, and growth rates
are all obtainable and you should check them out in advance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Thuja
occidentalis “Nigra”</i> is a commonly planted arborvitae and often ends up at
the corners of a foundation planting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
looks great when it’s small, but what it really wants to do is grow close to a
foot each year and reach an eventual height of 30-40’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not the best choice for a foundation plant
unless you’re willing to prune it at least once a year and even then there are
better options.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here in New England it’s
also a deer magnet and they love to nibble it away to nothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knowing the growth habit in advance and some
of the plant particulars like attractiveness to deer, can save lots of heartache
in the future.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Next, once you’ve researched
your plants, make sure they all have more than enough room in your plan. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even with the information you’ve gained, plan
some extra space to be on the safe side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Why?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, plants are much like children;
they behave in extremely unexpected ways.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Yes, the rhododendron you purchased said it would reach a height of only
5’, but since your location is fantastic it has decided to dominate your
foundation planting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ultimate height and
width numbers are guidelines, not numbers written in stone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Your mileage may vary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Watch out for snakes, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If there are gaps in the plantings you can
always add perennials, bulbs, or even annuals to fill in the space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be patient and let the plants grow out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So far I’ve mentioned plants
getting too large for a site, is it possible to choose plants that just stay
too small?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of course!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There’s a homeowner not far from where I live
who decided they wanted a living privacy hedge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are many suitable plants for this task but they went with a double
row of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Picea glauca ‘Conica.’</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This plant is commonly known as the Dwarf
Alberta Spruce and its growth rate is measured in amounts of less than an inch
per year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The homeowners started off
with plants that were maybe 2’ tall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
ultimate height of the tree would probably have made an excellent screening
hedge (8-12’).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately it would have
taken decades for them to reach this height.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Eventually, they decided to put up a fence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Researching before planting is so very
important.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Need some resources to start
researching?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sure!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Any book by Michael Dirr.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I still have an old hardcover copy of his
book, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Manual of Woody Landscape Plants:
Their Identification, Ornamental Characteristics, Culture, Propagation and Use</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His works are pretty much the go-to resources
for shrubs and trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">2.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Any
of the Taylor’s Gardening Guides.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
are many of them and they’re great resources for basic plant information
including everything from annuals to trees.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">3.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Garden
magazines including <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Horticulture</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Fine Gardening</i> or the BBC publication <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Gardens Illustrated</i> all have information
on plants and design.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Gardens Illustrated</i> is a particular
favorite of mine due to the excellent photography.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">4.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><a href="http://davesgarden.com/"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Calibri;">http://davesgarden.com</span></a><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> has tons of
information about plants, gardening, and reliable resources for plants.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">5.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Check
your local botanic garden website.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tower
Hill Botanic Gardens here in Massachusetts, for example, has a horticultural
hotline you can call on Wednesdays from 2-4pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They also have many resources on site at the garden.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you’re into native plants, check out The
Garden in the Woods which is located in Framingham, Massachusetts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Costal Maine Botanical Gardens is another
fantastic resource if you’re planning a trip to Boothbay and/or midcoast Maine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These are all resources I rely on constantly as even
though I’ve worked with plants for many years, there are always new things to
learn. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Recommended Plant:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Asarum europaeum</i>
or European Wild Ginger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This fantastic
little perennial works well in shady locations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It fills in slowly, more or less ambling across the ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The dark shiny leaves look fantastic
throughout the growing season and it encounters few diseases or pests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve read that it prefers moist soil, but I’ve
had it grow quite well in a dry spot with a little extra water to get it
established.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you’re looking for a
slow growing perennial for near a walkway or as a companion plant to other
slower growing shade plants, this is an excellent choice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Note:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In no way is this plant related to the culinary ginger—that plant
prefers tropical growing conditions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYZqNChqil02tHGBsuC5YqLl6TaD4Abu27Ool_fxZ-QO2zUjsEQk8yVmIw6ZAFy8T6HGwNY5rEQOhV5AJqj_Sv8wCysZyK6RdyycXzu00Mi8SOc7mtRIalZeBfqFkA_8c9XkdOnC1eT-A/s1600/IMG_0144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYZqNChqil02tHGBsuC5YqLl6TaD4Abu27Ool_fxZ-QO2zUjsEQk8yVmIw6ZAFy8T6HGwNY5rEQOhV5AJqj_Sv8wCysZyK6RdyycXzu00Mi8SOc7mtRIalZeBfqFkA_8c9XkdOnC1eT-A/s320/IMG_0144.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-21796995753136070162012-07-08T15:03:00.002-04:002012-07-08T15:03:55.800-04:00Garden Design on the Cheap<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>So
you have a new house or you’re looking to replace existing landscaping and are
on a budget.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What do you do?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those shows on HGTV offer lots of great, yet
expensive, ideas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Is it possible to
design a garden on the cheap?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Oh, it sure
is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are many ways to plan out a
garden and do it on a budget.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here are
some tips to help you on your way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Plan, plan, plan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Figure out which plants are best for your
site and narrow down choices in advance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As I’ve mentioned before, knowing which plants do best in your location
is one of the most important factors for success.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Do not make last minute impulse buys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take your list and ideas with you when
shopping for plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take pictures of
the area you want to plant and bring them along as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knowing the site well and choosing plants in
advance will help save money in the long run.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">2.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Visit
as many garden centers and/or supply stores as possible—yes, even big box
stores like Home Depot or Lowe’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s
surprising to learn prices and how much they vary from store to store.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the same time, note the quality of the
plant—keep an eye out for diseased leaves, or droopy foliage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I once worked for a while at a local Home
Depot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every now and then, tucked into a
new plant shipment, were some interesting choices.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During one such delivery there were some
rhododendrons I knew were not available locally.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The plants looked great and were really
cheap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Needless to say, a couple plant
lovers came in and snapped them up right away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I wouldn’t buy a specimen tree at a big box store, but certain shrubs
and perennials would be fine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Local
garden centers may offer special deals during the summer to entice customers
in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take advantage of them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Generally speaking, your local garden center
will also be able to offer more in the way of customer service.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, if you need a trio of lilacs and
Home Depot has them at a great price, grab them while you can.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">3.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Set
aside money for one major specimen plant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If you truly want a showy tree for the garden, make sure you have funds
set aside specifically for it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Go to
local garden centers and do comparison shopping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This will be your big budget item so it’s
best to aim for quality over price.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What
should you choose?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, aim for a
smaller decorative tree such as: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cornus
kousa</i> (Korean Dogwood), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cercis canadensis</i>
(Redbud), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Chionanthus virginicus</i>
(Fringe Tree), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Syringia reticulata</i>
(Japanese Tree Lilac), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Acer griseum</i>
(Paperbark Maple), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Prunus “Hally
Jolivette”</i> (Hally Jolivette Cherry), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Styrax
japonica</i> (Japanese Snowbell Tree).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All
of these plants produce flowers except for the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Acer griseum</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>None of these
trees get tremendously huge and work well in a foundation planting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still, give them at least 15’ distance from
the house to allow for spreading growth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Please note that I’m avoiding weeping cherries, Japanese maples, and
Florida dogwoods.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Weeping cherries become
very large fairly quickly and can overpower a house, or come barging into the
house to say hello.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Japanese maples are
planted all the time and although they’re fairly inexpensive, why not aim for
something a little different?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Florida
dogwoods have trouble with a fungal disease called Anthracnose and although
there are varieties that are less prone to it, I’d skip this plant to be on the
safe side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another popular specimen tree,
frequently planted for decorative bark and summer flowers, is the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Stewartia pseudocamellia</i> (Japanese
Stewartia).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It tends to grow larger than
other trees I’ve listed and its hardiness is somewhat questionable (Zone 5-ish
possibly even 4 with protection).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They
prefer rich, organic soil and do not tolerate hot, dry, windy locations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If your yard is protected from scorching sun
and you have space to plant it further from your house, then it might make an
excellent choice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve also noted that
this tree in particular takes a while to settle in after transplanting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It may be a few years before it starts to
take off and produce a major show of blooms.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">4.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Plant
perennials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many perennials can be
purchased inexpensively and some are easily propagated via division.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hostas, daylilies, Siberian Iris, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Monarda</i> (Bee Balm), ornamental grasses, and
numerous other perennials grow rapidly and need dividing fairly often.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One pot of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Monarda</i>, for example, can probably be divided immediately upon
purchase if there are enough runners present (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Mondarda</i> is in the mint family and spreads via runner growth).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perennials extend the bloom time of the
garden and can add interesting textures/foliage as well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">5.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Plant
perennial herbs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are many
perennial herbs available and most often I’ve found them to be much less
expensive than other perennials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sure,
they may not be as showy as a cluster of Asiatic Lilies, but they’re frequently
difficult to kill and interesting when mixed in with other plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chives, catmint, lemon balm, apple mint,
chocolate mint, or garlic chives, would all make excellent garden
additions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The mints will need some
roping in, since they can quickly turn invasive, but they’re great plants with
a little preparation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thyme is also a
perennial herb, but has the awful tendency to die unexpectedly after
flourishing for a few years. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although an
annual, dill might be a good choice as well since it frequently spreads readily
via seeds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">6.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">If
you must plant annuals, aim for something showy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Geraniums, impatiens, marigolds and pansies
are commonly planted annuals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Unfortunately, it frequently takes a number of them to have a decent
showing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead of planting these, aim
for one of the more unusual annuals that will add some bulk to the garden.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This way, you can plant fewer of them yet
still get masses of flower color.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For
example, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Nicotiana alata</i>, is a great
annual that can reach up to 3’ high and produces lots of white trumpet shaped
flowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are many annual salvias
that produce interesting flowers in shades of rich blue and purple.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You might also consider annual flowering
herbs such as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Borage officinalis</i> or
nasturtiums. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As an aside, one annual to
avoid is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Verbena bonariensis</i> as it is
proving to be invasive in some situations, even here in New England.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.75in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">7.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Visit
plant swaps and garden club sales.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They
always offer interesting plants and you can frequently find inexpensive
options.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">8.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Repurpose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’ve found some large interesting rocks
while digging in the yard?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add them to
the garden.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There’s an ugly statue in
the front yard that you cannot get rid of because it was a gift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clematis might look quite nice scampering
over it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Your neighbor is disposing of
some hostas to make room for more lawn—adopt them!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even if the hostas are an uninteresting
variety, they can be used to take up space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Use them as a ground cover beneath your new decorative tree or use them
as filler plants on the shady side of the house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those bricks from the chimney you had
removed?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use them in the garden to build
stepping stones or as a section of wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Be creative, there may be many free items in your own yard that just
need to be repurposed to find new use.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">9.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mulch
everything.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes, it is an expense, but
you want the plants you’ve spent hard earned money on to survive weed growth
and/or summer drought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mulch is an
important cost to factor in and should be considered essential.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It doesn’t need to be fancy, it just needs to
help retain soil moisture and keep things cool.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">10.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Think
about walkways, water features, structural needs (such as stone walls), house
color, roof drip line, and driveway position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Why?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, they’re all expensive
additions and/or changes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those lovely
stone walls you see being built on television are expensive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Water features are nice, but are hardly
essential.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unless you’re willing to pay
to have your house painted, you’re stuck with that color so plan out flower
colors in advance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Walkways are
generally needed and can be expensive additions/replacements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If possible, use what you have.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<br /></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Recommended Plant:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Borage officinalis</i>
or Common Borage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This fantastic annual
herb offers up interesting fuzzy foliage, bright blue flowers, is edible, and
attracts lots of honey bees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What’s not
to like?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, maybe the bees, but
still, it’s a great plant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It grows
rapidly, tolerates full sun and dry conditions, and more or less makes itself
at home rapidly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you’re looking for
an annual herb to add some interesting color and texture to a foundation
planting, consider borage as an option.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpv3bOSeh8URXUAGTb2p_9NZ6wZCwN_EG0Fuv6K4slS6Dq4eBu8WvG7wYCS5xq-zBqz125yXcbLiiSbMZY8xtdLJJkKpbASzDzYs-NCIFc5EOeKkwEqzD-iv92hEVlYkOv7taJWrIbPDBq/s1600/IMG_0148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpv3bOSeh8URXUAGTb2p_9NZ6wZCwN_EG0Fuv6K4slS6Dq4eBu8WvG7wYCS5xq-zBqz125yXcbLiiSbMZY8xtdLJJkKpbASzDzYs-NCIFc5EOeKkwEqzD-iv92hEVlYkOv7taJWrIbPDBq/s320/IMG_0148.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-43133807997022649172012-07-07T12:01:00.000-04:002012-07-07T12:02:04.933-04:00Not Quite a Native<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">There are many plants here in
New England that have become established parts of the landscape.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They’re so established, in fact, that they’re
practically natives.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, they’re
not actually natives and in some cases they’re invasive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These “almost natives” frequently appear in
places you’d expect natives to turn up; abandoned fields, roadside drainage
ditches, along waterways or lakes, and even along roadsides.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the background they flourish, to the point
where they just seem like they belong there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Perhaps one of the most common
of these plants is <em>Hemerocallis fulva</em>, frequently referred to as the “ditch
lilly.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This daylily appears all over
roadsides throughout New England and is also planted in gardens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Colonists brought this plant with them from
Europe and it quickly escaped from their gardens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tuberous root system is quite tenacious
and will thoroughly settle into an area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It will appear near old abandoned house foundations, in cemeteries, and
I’ve seen clumps of it happily growing in fairly shady areas along dirt
roads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In some locations it is quite
invasive and seems to belong, but it’s not a native.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiUWpDky8Je25IEOlgh9F77kmq7foPhe8JWB0jXjb5c23qTpjZMS4P0rPnw0kn9hozK8awHhLLUWM02oxl7b32_myAx6vdi5symSpePT1FmsHDyVS_esXKF7pXyXqVUi9dQBmf59v3PFJe/s1600/Ditch+Lily.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiUWpDky8Je25IEOlgh9F77kmq7foPhe8JWB0jXjb5c23qTpjZMS4P0rPnw0kn9hozK8awHhLLUWM02oxl7b32_myAx6vdi5symSpePT1FmsHDyVS_esXKF7pXyXqVUi9dQBmf59v3PFJe/s320/Ditch+Lily.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Hemerocallis fulva<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Another colonial garden plant
that appears to be native is the common lilac, <em>Syringa vulgaris</em>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As with the common daylily, this plant was
brought over by colonists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you’re
interested in finding old home sites, stands of lilacs are excellent place markers
for foundations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lilacs often turn up in
the strangest of places, yet once upon a time, a garden or home was
nearby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve found them in wooded areas
growing next to long abandoned home sites; where all that was left was a pile
of rocks that made up the foundation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
guess is that someone scavenged these foundation stones to build stone walls in
the area at a later date.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lilacs,
however, survived just fine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lilacs will
spread in a few different ways depending on variety.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most plants will slowly grow outward by
sending up new stems in the form of sucker growth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In some cases, lilac stems will root in where
branches touch the ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the case
of the foundation lilacs I discovered they were spreading by low growing
suckers, almost like a ground cover. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Surprisingly, one of the most
favored of all garden plants isn’t all that common as a native plant in North
America.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Roses, so often seen in
gardens, along the beach, or even bordering parking lots, are actually much
more frequently found as a native plant in Asia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even the common <em>Rosa rugosa</em>, seen so often at
New England beaches, is native to Asia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><em>Rosa virginiana</em> and <em>Rosa carolina</em> are native to North America and appear
in the wild here in New England (although competition from <em>Rosa multifloria</em> and
other invasive plants is cutting down on their habitat).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So most of the roses found growing in the
wild aren’t natives, but are instead garden escapees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rose collectors will often scour cemeteries
and abandoned home sites in an effort to find old garden roses for
preservation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The rose pictured below
appears near where I live.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two homes
have it scrambling over rocks in their front yards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But in this picture, the rose is growing at what
was once a home site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s not a native,
yet this plant in particular seems to appear frequently here in central
Massachusetts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My guess is, it was a
commonly planted climber that has gone out of fashion but that has proven to be durable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> It only blooms once in the early summer and today, with so many options availabe, it has fallen by the wayside as a garden option. </span>So although you may find beach roses or roses
like the climber below turning up throughout New England, they’re not native,
although they certainly seem to belong.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWlEoLfSjEYKeu9eXN69tOGo7sYU9nmuKQrL9DNQgyj_umQy6v3QWMCxvZc8xBmwhhPislMS2q32Kw3DErDHlmRvzAuZpIk2av-1RgcKR2iFEDmV8DDBXVfxD4VAhWRptPiWNw2KBJkTt/s1600/IMG_0201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWlEoLfSjEYKeu9eXN69tOGo7sYU9nmuKQrL9DNQgyj_umQy6v3QWMCxvZc8xBmwhhPislMS2q32Kw3DErDHlmRvzAuZpIk2av-1RgcKR2iFEDmV8DDBXVfxD4VAhWRptPiWNw2KBJkTt/s320/IMG_0201.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Unidentified climbing rose.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgILqzlsRDomdNj1E4nnK6_sVuwE5idQ9JAOiiI4bPC-vn7H8F4R3WN5HQWgRpWFt7jglSFUpO-VAEbtumlbHbDTQ8XmwEJKXmW_9UFmbtrzGejrsEeo3xOXozR7w-YAN_uO4HQNuiNw4XV/s1600/Rosa+Rugosa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgILqzlsRDomdNj1E4nnK6_sVuwE5idQ9JAOiiI4bPC-vn7H8F4R3WN5HQWgRpWFt7jglSFUpO-VAEbtumlbHbDTQ8XmwEJKXmW_9UFmbtrzGejrsEeo3xOXozR7w-YAN_uO4HQNuiNw4XV/s320/Rosa+Rugosa.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Rosa rugosa<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p> </o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This next plant appears in wet
areas including spots where the plant is partially submerged during the growing
season.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yellow Flag Iris, or Iris
pseudodacorus, turns up wherever there is moist soil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In some cases, the plant has become invasive,
but at the same time it almost seems to belong where it is growing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again, this is a plant once frequently
planted as a garden ornamental.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
native habitat for this iris is actually Europe and it also turns up in Asia
and northwest Africa.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because it can
pull pollutants out of the water through its tuberous root system, it was used
as a natural water treatment filter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Unfortunately, this plant is hideously invasive in some locations, but
at the same time has become so commonly seen it looks almost like it
belongs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is, alas, not quite a
native.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkY_ZYJgYY-jOgeMllpJ7LbQ2U3QOyTD8s3kvEKF5xUcxiZN8C-DmtkxsR2QbtoDrJGYViMmbFH-Iie6BMnNLZ5p0qGyRriFwlI7FmiE4ApADbca69fXXIfib2knZcJfpv1Rtv4Gfi4QV/s1600/IMG_0131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkY_ZYJgYY-jOgeMllpJ7LbQ2U3QOyTD8s3kvEKF5xUcxiZN8C-DmtkxsR2QbtoDrJGYViMmbFH-Iie6BMnNLZ5p0qGyRriFwlI7FmiE4ApADbca69fXXIfib2knZcJfpv1Rtv4Gfi4QV/s320/IMG_0131.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p> Iris pseudoacorus</o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sometimes, the best intentions
can lead to major problems in the plant world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Frequently planted as a food source for birds, Russian Olive or Elaeagnus
angustifolia, has become a major pest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is incredibly invasive as the seeds are readily spread by birds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the same time, the plant has been around
long enough so that it almost seems like a native.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve seen massive stands of it growing along
highways and it appears so often I almost don’t notice it any more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The foliage is a silvery grey color and the
flowers are small and yellow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3t00jrYYehAu5krl0Vo2vkxS5LHKsyFeUcq6EgCl_8emrFCm4jVIWV0XhwBhETBpOTsmhPuHKWL9oj4z6QtkJGW424P5qnHN_uddxJKJH781FiKbBj3VnHXFiX6xjqlfjnSnwtCRIbSj4/s1600/IMG_0125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3t00jrYYehAu5krl0Vo2vkxS5LHKsyFeUcq6EgCl_8emrFCm4jVIWV0XhwBhETBpOTsmhPuHKWL9oj4z6QtkJGW424P5qnHN_uddxJKJH781FiKbBj3VnHXFiX6xjqlfjnSnwtCRIbSj4/s320/IMG_0125.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Russian Olive Flower<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDI6Ekpion98HSsEtShCmrQfYaJbw21f7jjKNf1NxuMRvhtuzwA1ZXds46M_dAD0k-muWaUuKo5LGMzbjb8b3iI6YbU5MmhmpEJ6kP9TUvvhGx1WpBXt86LfDv-YCZ3H7ScWi2UvqgIRu/s1600/IMG_0126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDI6Ekpion98HSsEtShCmrQfYaJbw21f7jjKNf1NxuMRvhtuzwA1ZXds46M_dAD0k-muWaUuKo5LGMzbjb8b3iI6YbU5MmhmpEJ6kP9TUvvhGx1WpBXt86LfDv-YCZ3H7ScWi2UvqgIRu/s320/IMG_0126.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Russian Olive Foliage<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">There are many other plants that
fall into this category of “not quite a native” including Dame’s Rocket,
Hesperis matronalis, which I’ve mentioned before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Purple loosestrife, or Lythrum salicaria, is
seen all along waterways here in the southern part of New England and I’ve seen
it appearing in southern Vermont and above Portland Maine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like the other plants mentioned, these often
invasive plants have become ubiquitous and have settled in to the point where
they almost belong here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Efforts to
eradicate some of these plants continue and hopefully success will be had
before the actual native plants are lost entirely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the same time the landscape has been so
altered by these plants that they’ve almost become the new “natives.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">For this post I double checked
my memory using: Wikipedia and </span><a href="http://www.plantnative.org/"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Calibri;">www.plantnative.org</span></a><span style="font-family: Calibri;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Recommended Plant:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Arrowwood Viburnum or Viburnum dentatum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is one of our native viburnums and an
excellent garden plant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The white lacy
flowers appear in late spring and dark purple berries turn up in late
summer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The berries attract birds and
the dense upright stems offer lots of nest building real estate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Luckily, the plant tolerates all kinds of
growing conditions from damp rich soil to dry sandy soil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It will tolerate some shade although grows
best with as much sun as possible. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkIjTerjUthqKZU9Bo2Ka6NBT4pHlGLkRBOe73erw_-P1Z56Icdk2THtCCiA6kgwX4zgpLwApBb7X3iF460OemIHRt5GaWXfvdszSPUOhtUmBjcs3pRMdm833VXiS7_mVxZmEfWRBi5WYS/s1600/IMG_0134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkIjTerjUthqKZU9Bo2Ka6NBT4pHlGLkRBOe73erw_-P1Z56Icdk2THtCCiA6kgwX4zgpLwApBb7X3iF460OemIHRt5GaWXfvdszSPUOhtUmBjcs3pRMdm833VXiS7_mVxZmEfWRBi5WYS/s320/IMG_0134.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> Arrowwood Viburnum Flower</span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrCCRAoGLGlXJaJlsYpSc9NOVEND_aVOcKzC6S7QHW9n91-XuBm8iAXdzN8HbJZaU2faVIfoYHGMQdo3CGTZ1wfpGQRcFF-2N87jXMkso5sicRFb92-P-oICC-l7GPKNrYgzwKpmp2zZAU/s1600/Arrowwood+Viburnum+Berries.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrCCRAoGLGlXJaJlsYpSc9NOVEND_aVOcKzC6S7QHW9n91-XuBm8iAXdzN8HbJZaU2faVIfoYHGMQdo3CGTZ1wfpGQRcFF-2N87jXMkso5sicRFb92-P-oICC-l7GPKNrYgzwKpmp2zZAU/s320/Arrowwood+Viburnum+Berries.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Arrowwood Viburnum Fruit<br />
When I took the picture of the Arrowwood Viburnum fruit, the weather had been unseasonably warm after an initial cold period. The fruits stayed on the plants and actually fermented. Birds weren't taking the berries due to this, and the area was filled with the scent of earthy, wine like, fermentation.Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-22437287110226471812012-06-10T13:14:00.002-04:002012-06-10T13:14:33.514-04:00Laurel of the Mountains<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Kalmia latifolia, or Mountain Laurel, has a special place in
my family history.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My grandmother, on my
father’s side, chose this flower to make up her bridal bouquet. The wedding was in June and the laurel flowers were in abundant supply from local woods.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The flowers appear in a wide variety of
colors ranging from whites and pale pinks to dark pink and white with a reddish
band through the flower.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So many
cultivars have been created you can find wide variety from plant to plant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are even dwarf versions which stay
smaller and flower quite heavily.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When
young, Mountain Laurel has a similar appearance to most broad leaved
evergreens; it has a flowing, billowy profile and tends to put out growth that
mounds upwards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As the plant ages,
however, it becomes much more heavy limbed, twisted, and gnarled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The native plant can reach heights over 10 feet
and become equally as wide or wider as stems will root into the ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This means that Mountain Laurel can be a
tricky foundation plant due to size when it becomes older.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Luckily, it takes well to pruning and can be
cut back like most other broad leaved evergreens (carefully removing overgrown
sections and avoiding the use of hedge trimmers).</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qyANhsXx3-AKNXt7aM3jPfjDcJWAfTBRxAEePuWH23ktHsxZ1aNP4bxHgmjvPCuDax7UlA0Rom3uhFjZQDWTbx80V4HPLPvAqNWgqQkSckc839Z-e3cZeLSZ3Vvhs8JipjWREixUv4kU/s1600/IMG_0139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qyANhsXx3-AKNXt7aM3jPfjDcJWAfTBRxAEePuWH23ktHsxZ1aNP4bxHgmjvPCuDax7UlA0Rom3uhFjZQDWTbx80V4HPLPvAqNWgqQkSckc839Z-e3cZeLSZ3Vvhs8JipjWREixUv4kU/s320/IMG_0139.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Kalmia latifolia flowers.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Some
gardeners have trouble with Kalmia as it does have some specific
requirements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It will not tolerate hot,
dry locations so avoid planting it in a southern facing location.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wind at any time of year can produce damage
to the leaves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the same time, Kalmia
does not tolerate wet feet and should be planted well away from automatic
sprinkler systems and/or downspouts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Like Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurels have shallow, mat-like root
systems.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is quite easy to drown them
or have them dry out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the same time,
I’ve seen them growing in dry oak forests in massive stands looking as healthy
as can be.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I expect there’s enough of a
composted leaf layer to protect the roots and trap moisture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kalmia have few pests and diseases, borers
being a somewhat common insect pest along with rust fungus attacking the
leaves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Scale and lacebug may also prove
to be pests; lacebug being a particular problem in bright, sunny, exposures.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHl9L99h1H4jm4PxHgRzYRLQNVfoNz6_4W6UiQdNbvdwo0FP4aziEkLNCHOualIJzDrnwAcbyQOScEUKz9eFSe28dyQFgIl4ZzObhyphenhyphenlvQNjlcVzag1wa9Ejdjin1qHQqFHaOm_J_S8vaUk/s1600/IMG_0140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHl9L99h1H4jm4PxHgRzYRLQNVfoNz6_4W6UiQdNbvdwo0FP4aziEkLNCHOualIJzDrnwAcbyQOScEUKz9eFSe28dyQFgIl4ZzObhyphenhyphenlvQNjlcVzag1wa9Ejdjin1qHQqFHaOm_J_S8vaUk/s320/IMG_0140.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mountain Laurel Foliage</span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">So you have a great spot for a laurel but aren’t sure which
type to go with?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here are some that I’ve
had direct experience with.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kalmia
latifolia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the native and can
range in color from pale pink to white.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The buds tend to be pale pink.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Kalmia latifolia ‘Olympic Fire.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This version has bright red buds and rich
pink flowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s quite impressive when
mature.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Kalmia latifolia ‘Sarah.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another laurel with bright red buds, so
bright they stand out even from a distance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The flowers open a deep, pinkish red.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4.<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Kalmia latifolia ‘Shooting Star.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you’re looking for flowers with a
different look, this might be the plant to go with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unlike the other varieties, ‘Shooting Star’
has petals that bend backward, looking like miniature, white, shooting stars.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5.<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Kalmia latifolia ‘Twenty.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This impressive plant tends to have more
compact growth and makes an excellent foundation plant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The flowers start with dark pink buds and
open to a more shell pink flower.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">There are also a number of dwarf varieties with
names like ‘Elf’, ‘Tiddlywinks’ and ‘Tinkerbell’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The growth tends to be more uniform and they
turn into low billowing mounds up to about 4’ high at maturity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They will flower heavily but the leaves tend
to be smaller.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhQAK4RyUgFFuTIPJVE_8MRzXSRGwjn3UjNSIZdSbfHFf8JCXV6HG-qHZ8j1m_Tt0lkztrKSMxf2c2eeGx2g8TDx5yqbHz3d7cqhm5TmYCQaW__fVj1nd6npQ8Q44QyS0HTIgP2Kr4cc7r/s1600/IMG_0141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhQAK4RyUgFFuTIPJVE_8MRzXSRGwjn3UjNSIZdSbfHFf8JCXV6HG-qHZ8j1m_Tt0lkztrKSMxf2c2eeGx2g8TDx5yqbHz3d7cqhm5TmYCQaW__fVj1nd6npQ8Q44QyS0HTIgP2Kr4cc7r/s320/IMG_0141.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">A pink selection of Mountain Laurel.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> <span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Another option, if
you’re interested in native laurels, is the Sheep’s Laurel or Kalmia
angustifolia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is low growing,
reaching about 3’ maximum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The leaves
are smaller and more willow-like.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve
not had them in a garden personally, but they seem to be especially tough;
growing in dry, inhospitable places.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Occasionally, they turn up in areas that are damp in the spring, but dry
in the summer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Recommended Plant:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Papaver somniferum ‘Lauren’s Grape.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I met this plant for the first time today, 6/10/12 at Tower Hill Botanic
Gardens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes, it is a Bread Poppy or Opium
Poppy, so purchasing it may prove difficult; state laws vary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In some locations it’s possible to sell the
seeds, but not live plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Luckily,
this poppy is easy to start from seed and tends to self-sow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve never seen this kind of poppy with such
a rich colored flower.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pink and white
varieties have turned up in my garden in the past and they’re quite pretty but
cannot hold a candle to this rich purple.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-82611874828805053902012-06-03T09:35:00.000-04:002012-06-03T09:35:10.458-04:00Daylily ResourcesGiven the warmer than usual spring we've been having here in New England, certain daylilies are already beginning to flower. Daylilies offer thousands of different colors, patterns, textures, and some are even scented. Many of them are incredibly tough and need little in the way of special attention once established. It took a while, but over time I learned who the reputable growers were and I learned to avoid the frequent cries of "Fantastic Daylilies at Low Low Prices!!!" So, here are some of the places I've purchased from in the past and one place I visit on a yearly basis (for blueberries and for pictures as well as daylilies).<br />
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<a href="http://www.mariettagardens.com/">http://www.mariettagardens.com/</a><br />
Marietta gardens offers up an amazing array of plants including many they've developed.<br />
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<a href="http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/">http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/</a><br />
Probably the first grower I ordered from. They tend to have older varieties with great prices and huge plants. Many of the older daylilies have become harder to locate due to newer, showier plants taking their places. It's important to preserve these more antique varieties for genetic diversity and because they're pretty fantastic in the garden.<br />
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<a href="http://www.daylilygarden.com/">http://www.daylilygarden.com/</a><br />
Olallie Daylily Gardens specializes in especially hardy, early blooming, and late blooming varieties for northern gardens. They also sell an amazing variety of Siberian Iris. During July, they have pick your own organic blueberries and it's a fantastic place to wander about. If you're ever in southern Vermont, their gardens are certainly worth a visit.<br />
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<a href="http://www.tranquil-lake.com/">http://www.tranquil-lake.com/</a><br />
Tranquil Lake is a Massachusetts grower with an impressive selection of plants. They also have many workshops and a fantastic "Garden Days" festival each summer. Tranquil Lake also offers a large number of Siberian Iris.<br />
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<a href="http://www.daylilies-hostas.com/">http://www.daylilies-hostas.com/</a><br />
Another Massachusetts grower, R. Seawright Gardens has numerous daylily cultivars along with hostas. <br />
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<a href="http://www.daylily.com/cgi-bin/auction.cgi">http://www.daylily.com/cgi-bin/auction.cgi</a><br />
If you're willing to take a chance, the Lily Auction can be an amazing resource for new plants. Similar to EBay, growers offer up plants for people to bid on. I've had success with this process before and will probably use it in the future when I'm looking for deals on specific varieties. Just make sure to check the seller feedback information to help guarantee that their plants are decent.<br />
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Recommended Plant: Adiantum pedatum. Maidenhair Fern<br />
This native fern looks nothing like the more common ferns seen growing along streams or in fields. It's far more delicate in appearance and tends to blend in well with other shade loving plants. They are a bit picky about site selection and will not tolerate dry shade. With adequate moisture and dappled sunlight, they will slowly form colonies of graceful, green whorls. The leaf stems are black and the early spring fronds are red offering interesting contrasting colors.<br />
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-51786364904319866622012-06-02T13:02:00.000-04:002012-06-02T13:02:03.914-04:00The Invasion of the Dame"Hi, don't mind me, I'll just settle down here in your garden and look pretty each spring. What? Those plants over there? No, not MY children. I have no idea why those little ones choked out your prize Columbines. These seeds? Oh, pay no attention to them, they just aren't all that prolific. My flowers look just like Phlox, you'll love me, and my children, and their children, and their children. In fact, you'll like me so much you probably won't pull me out of the garden until it's too late and we've taken over. Uh, not that we would take over, mind you, we're pretty and quiet and butterflies like us. Look! We're useful!"<br />
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Dame's Rocket, Hesperis matronalis, is in bloom this time of year. It has lavender, white, or pinkish flowers. Often confused with tall garden phlox, this invasive is a garden escapee. Originally brought to the colonies from Europe, the plant now appears frequently throughout New England. Here in Massachusetts, the planting of it is prohibited. Generally, the plants are biennial producing leaves the first year and flowers the second. They prefer sunny or partly shady areas with moist soil. Luckily, when young, the plants are fairly easy to remove from the soil. <br />
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Although invasive, this plant isn't quite so horrible as Rosa multiflora or Oriental Bittersweet. It's not nearly as tenacious and is actually quite nice in small doses. Unfortunately, if given enough time, the plant will take over. I've seen Dame's Rocket growing next to highways, coming up between pavement and concrete steps, and readily growing in abandoned fields. So, if it's appearing in your yard, you may want to pull it as soon as it appears, or perhaps enjoy it until it flowers, then cut it back so it doesn't produce seed.<br />
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Recommended Plant: Hemerocallis "Bandit Man."</div>
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When this plant was first recommended to me, I read the description and said to myself, "Oh, it's another orange daylily, sounds pretty dull, why is someone recommending it?" The first year I had it in the ground it performed well, flowered, and was fairly unimpressive. Yes, the flowers were nice, but nothing to write home about. The second year, and years beyond, I realized exactly why it was such a great plant. It produces numerous flowers and all of them are large (4-5" across). The red eye zone goes well with the orange tones of the petals. The plant thrives in less than stellar conditions (hot and dry soil to be exact). Because the flowers are numerous and large, they look fantastic even from a distance. Although it only blooms once during the summer, it generates enough flowers so the bloom period is lengthy. It would be an amazing plant to have in a large grouping. In the picture below the colors are a bit washed out due to the bright sunlight. The orange is a tad richer in color and the eye zone more red than orange.</div>
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<br /></div>Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-14962420624517096532012-05-28T11:49:00.001-04:002012-05-28T11:49:55.121-04:00Rosa MultifloraIt's the time of year for an especially nasty invasive plant to start flowering. During a walk the other day I noticed Rosa multiflora beginning to bloom. The delicate white flowers, with a fantastic scent, were just opening on some plants while others were fully engaged. The arching canes form dense hiding areas for all kinds of wildlife and in the late summer and winter the hips are food for birds. It's such a shame that this plant is so invasive. Unfortunately, Rosa multiflora was once promoted as the perfect hedge plant. Yes, it will form impenetrable stands of thorny canes and become an excellent barrier. The seeds are highly successful when it comes to germination. Further, where canes touch the ground they will eventually root in and sprout new plants. The plant was also used as root stock when grafting certain roses to make them hardier. Die back would occur and the root stock would survive to vex the gardener in the future.<br />
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My personal experience with this invasive began at my parent's house. This annoying rose bush kept turning up all over the yard. My father would assault it with clippers and a shovel only to be confronted with the same plant the very next year. They were nothing if not tenacious. One year, so vexed by a plant growing too near a shed foundation, my father poured gasoline on it. He'd pruned it back and tried to dig out the main stems and roots with a shovel but discovered it was growing beneath the concrete slab of the shed. With one match, the remaining shrub was engulfed and quickly the stems blackened. Success was had that day. Well, just that day, the plant managed to survive the experience, shrugging off the flames and sending out bright green growth a few weeks later. Eventually, this particular plant was defeated through the use of larger clippers that sliced through the main stem of the plant--and perhaps the judicious use of a saw or axe. <br />
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The constant battles with this plant were fairly epic as seeds germinated just about anywhere. I'm sure they would have come right up through pavement if given the option. I have no idea where the original plants came from probably a gift from some bird. As invasives go, this one ranks right up there with Oriental Bittersweet with me. Annoyingly difficult to remove, speedy growth, and the habit of turning up in secret, unlikely places makes this invasive especially...well...invasive. If it should turn up in your yard, remove it as quickly as possible.<br />
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Recommended Plant:<br />
Magnolias are common spring trees that offer up amazing flowers each spring. There is one variety, native to the United States, that is a bit more subtle and flowers during summer. Also known as Sweetbay Magnolia, the small tree Magnolia virginiana is a great addition to the garden. They have waxy leaves, new growth that is grey/green, and creamy white flowers that smell like gardenias or vanilla. It's a fairly durable plant with few pests or disease issues. This plant is especially nice when planted next to a patio; it will offer some shade as it grows and the scented flowers should be close to where they can be enjoyed.<br />
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-77875318588013482012012-05-07T20:02:00.000-04:002012-05-07T20:07:11.420-04:00Musings on Foundation PlantingsOn the way to and from work today I was confronted with a harsh reality. There is nothing quite like a warm, sunny, spring day to make the heart long for the garden. During the drive home a detour was in place and I got to drive through a neighborhood I'd not been through before. Surprisingly, there were many fairly new homes along this road and best of all they weren't supporting yet another crop of muffined yews or similar evergreens in the front yard. It appears that builders are ranging out into the world of deciduous shrubs and perennials.<br />
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There was a time, not so long ago, when the common plants in front of new homes consisted of yews, arborvitae, rhododendrons, azaleas, and maybe a holly or boxwood. At some point, spirea became a common addition as well and barberry was practically inevitable as far as deciduous shrubs went. Unfortunately, yews are tasty and the local deer population will nibble at them even if they're planted right under the dining room windows. Arborvitae are also quite tasty to deer and I've seen many lovely hedges almost completely bare to about the 4' mark. Azaleas, rhododendrons, holly and boxwood all have some fairly specific needs and southern exposure in poor soil aren't two of them. Azaleas are particularly tricky, yet builders loved them. While working in the industry I saw many Delaware Valley White azaleas return quite dead due to exposure, over watering, or death by dryness. <br />
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So what did I see today that was different? Well, there were still some azaleas and rhododendrons kicking around, but there were many perennials mixed in. Siberian iris and daylilies were most common and some ornamental grasses were showing signs of life as well. A few Japanese maples were mixed into the foundation plantings and a dwarf weeping cherry of some sort was also seen (at least I hope it's a dwarf weeping cherry--far too many people buy standard weeping cherries when they're young, not realizing they'll get to 30' high and 30'wide). Now, one could argue that Japanese maples are a bit over planted these days, but it is nice to see them in place of the red barberries.<br />
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So, how can you make a foundation planting better and/or what should you do if faced with something new? Here's a list of 10 things to consider in no particular order (except for #1, it is most important). <br />
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1. Know your site. What exposure does it have? East? North? What is the soil like? Is it dry? Wet? Sandy? Rich? What plants are there currently and what seems to do well? Can you plant far enough out beyond the roof line so that plants won't be damaged by falling snow/ice? Can you give your plants enough distance from the house so that you can maneuver behind them? Knowing your site well might mean watching the area for a year and jotting down notes. Although it gets full sun in early April, can the same be said in May once leaves are fully out? Are winter winds particularly bad? Are there critters in the neighborhood who will eat everything you plant? Keep an eye out and learn as much as you can about the planting site before you start planting. I have much experience in the "wrong plant, wrong place" school of horticulture. Taking time is difficult, but worth it in the long run.<br />
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2. Symmetry is overrated. You do not need a columnar plant on each side of your doorway or at the front corners of the house, nor do you need an even number of plants. Aim for groupings instead of straight lines. Plant in odd numbers. This will lend a more natural look to the plantings, which can still end up being quite formal in tone.<br />
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3. Go for complimentary colors. Remember back when you were in school and your art teacher talked about the color wheel? No? Well, look it up online. It's fairly easy to match up colors if you stick with colors close to one another on the wheel. At the same time, some opposing colors look amazing together--just be careful. Looking for a white garden? Add some pale blue and grey colors, or maybe light pink in with white flowering plants for a more interesting collection.<br />
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4. Timing is everything. Avoid buying plants when you see them flowering just because they are flowering when you see them. Why? In some cases plants are brought to nurseries from other locations and they may be weeks ahead of their normal bloom time in your climate. Study your plants in advance and try to add a mix to the garden that will provide bloom time throughout the year. Those foundation plantings of azaleas and rhododendrons look great in the spring, but once June rolls around they get pretty boring. <br />
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5. Texture. Plants aren't just greenery and flowers, they are texture as well. Some plants have interesting winter bark or stem colors (like Acer griseum--the paperbark maple). Perennials are excellent sources of different textures as well, such as hostas which can have crinkly, or wavy leaves. Some plants have a soft profile, while others look strong. Some plants, like the Harry Lauder's Walking Stick (Corylus avellana 'Contorta'), are both; being a different looking plant between winter and summer.<br />
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6. Sometimes it just doesn't work out. It's not you, it's the damp. No, no, really, it isn't you, voles have come between us. In the garden, nothing is guaranteed 100% and even with your best efforts sometimes plants just don't work. They die mysteriously, become dinner for an animal, or shack up with the neighbor's hydrangeas. Move on, let it go, it wasn't meant to be, what doesn't kill us makes us stronger, and so forth.<br />
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7. Plants can be a lot of work. Some plants are fussy and enjoy as much attention as you can give them. They are divas of the yard and let you know if you've somehow disappointed them. Certain hydrangeas, clematis, azaleas, delphiniums, birch trees, and a host of other plants are picky, need your focus, and cannot go without more than the usual support in the yard. Granted, there are exceptions, but be prepared for the divas and avoid them. Even one of my favorite perennials, daylilies, offer up the finicky variety every now and again--I'm looking at you Strawberry Candy with your flowers that turn into gross, slimy, masses of evil if they get wet. And don't even get me started on the topiary...yes they have them at Home Depot, no it doesn't mean you should try one unless you are willing to take the time to take care of it properly. Just ask the horse topiary down the street from me that lost its back end to die back and turned into 1/2 a horse with a gigantic neck.<br />
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8. Avoid fad plants. For a while now the Tri-Color Willow (Salix integra 'Hakura Nishiki') has been popular with gardeners. Unfortunately, in order to get the interesting leaves, you need to prune the plant back in the spring (or more often). I've encountered gigantic, horrible versions of this plant and the pretty leaves are lost because the plant was attempting to eat the fence it was planted next to. Other plants look fantastic at first sight, but aren't reliably hardy, have insect/disease problems, or just don't thrive (like the Great Expectations hosta I once had). If something new appears at the garden center watch how it does in someone else's yard. Let them make the first mistake.<br />
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9. Mix in bulbs. A foundation planting needs a boost of early color and there are all kinds of bulbs that fit the bill. Snowdrops are especially early and spread well. Daffodils and Tulips are especially well known and some varieties are fantastic. <br />
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10. Take risks. Please, for plant lovers everywhere, take a risk and mix up the plants in front of your house. Oh, and don't prune your yews into neat little muffin shapes...they don't like that, although will tolerate it. Yews put out new growth on the tips of branches and if this is cut off every year it's possible to end up with a yew that has a thin shell of needles on the outside and nothing on the inside. Do you like blue hydrangeas? Put them near your front door. Like boxwood but don't want the plant to get large? Seek out one of the low growing types like Buxus sempervirens 'Vardar Valley' or the dwarf boxwood (Buxus sempervirens Suffruticosa). They may grow slowly, but they'll be far happier near your house. Try a weeping redbud (Cercis canadensis 'Covey') in place of a cherry, or maybe the lovely native fringe tree (Chionanthus virginicus). <br />
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Recommended Plant:<br />
Since I mentioned it above, I figured I'd provide this as my recommended plant. I have a soft spot for the Redbud (Cercis canadensis). This great small tree is excellent as a foundation planting (give it some room--at least 10' away from the house) and enjoy the early flowers and large heart shaped leaves. There are pink and white flowering types and another with reddish leaves (Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy'). There's even one with variegated leaves called 'Silver Cloud.' The weeping variety, 'Covey', is particularly nice and would make an interesting addition to any foundation planting. You may find 'Covey' listed as 'Lavender Twist.'<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbWkLP5TTyVWyrc0WR7ESWHpO-LI67GFPHdYDVT2nFYjVBzoluo3RGT3rrCY-WujvxuaThc0VliRL-YmJd6Er-o1vEbcFXb1fFLpGWn8GOjvQDG2EY-KYg6wx-8O37zas7SU1h4AociE8S/s1600/IMG_0087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbWkLP5TTyVWyrc0WR7ESWHpO-LI67GFPHdYDVT2nFYjVBzoluo3RGT3rrCY-WujvxuaThc0VliRL-YmJd6Er-o1vEbcFXb1fFLpGWn8GOjvQDG2EY-KYg6wx-8O37zas7SU1h4AociE8S/s320/IMG_0087.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-3490210010865891222012-05-05T16:08:00.001-04:002012-05-05T16:08:29.704-04:00Far, far too long.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It has been ages since I've posted anything garden related here. Last weekend I joined the Tower Hill Botanic Gardens in Boylston, MA. Each year I try and support a local museum or botanic garden and this year it is Tower Hill. Ultimately, my goal is to spend more time among plants and have the opportunity to learn more about photography. Above is one of the pictures I took during the visit.<br />
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I also went hunting for local wildflowers during a hike here in town. My luck wasn't so good as we've had a dry early spring. I did come across wood anemone, however, and managed to get a decent picture.<br />
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Beyond this, my gardening enjoyment is limited to planters out on the apartment deck railing--herbs this year--and visiting botanic gardens.<br />
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Recommended Plant:<br />
False Hellebore, Veratrum viride. Also called Indian Poke or Indian Hellebore. This native plant prefers damp soils and is often found along streams or in marshy fields. The bright green leaves offer amazing texture in the early garden. The flowers appear on tall stalks and are similar in color to the leaves. I've never had the opportunity to grow this myself, but when the time comes I hope to give it a try. If you're looking for a replacement for Hosta or similar shade/damp tolerant perennial, try this one out.<br />
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<br />Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-85614304127765301142008-05-04T09:20:00.000-04:002008-05-04T09:42:43.255-04:00A Walk in the WoodsYesterday, with the greens of spring in full riot, I went for a walk with my partner. We visited a state park nearby that is part of the Blackstone River National Heritage corridor. The weather was dubious, as there was a heavy mist falling, yet the walk was fun. There was, however, an upsetting element to this walk. There were tons of invasive nonnative plants all along the walk. There was no major variety to this invasion, but the sheer numbers were staggering.<br /><br />First came the Berberis species, vulgaris or thunbergii. They were everywhere. One large specemin lurked right next to the path laden with flowerbuds. I'm uncertain which species this was, but it looked to have pendulous flower clusters that would produce yellow flowers. Other examples of Berberis were lower growing, others growing in shady spots were reaching for the sky.<br /><br />Celastrus orbiculatus was making inroads in a few spots, but the greedy tendrils weren't covering everything as thickly as I've seen elsewhere. Perhaps the park rangers are working to remove it.<br /><br />Lonicera possibly of the maackii or tatarica family, was absolutely everywhere. The flowers are about to emerge and I suspect they'll show the plants to be of the tatarica group. They grew most thickly right along the path where the sun was brightest, although gangly versions grew further in the trees with less light. Little grew beneath them due to the shade they were casting. Birds will most happily spread their seeds further afield.<br /><br />Of course Rosa multiflora made an appearance, but like the bittersweet it wasn't appearing in great abundance. If only the multiflora in my own yard were following the same pattern. It's sprouting up absolutely everywhere this year.<br /><br />There was no sign of Lythrum salicaria, the horrible purple loosestrife, but I'm sure it was lurking around somewhere.<br /><br />The good news is there were plenty of native plants chugging along, including a variety of evergreen fern that I'd love to try and grow in my own garden. I'm hoping that if funds or initiative allow the park will try and cull out these unwanted invaders to preserve what natives are there.<br /><br />Recommended Plant of the Week: Magnolia soulangiana. In the north, we cannot reliably grow the beautiful evergreen magnolias so common in the south (Bracken's Brown Beauty can survive if in a protected location, but I've never seen a very large one). The common saucer magnolia offers up huge flowers and a tree large enough to provide shade. Toward the end of April here in Massachusetts, the trees are covered in sweetly scented flowers. These flowers are pink at the base and change to white toward the ends of the petals. It's a fantastic classic plant that certainly deserves a showcase position in the garden.Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-75694613722461430242008-04-25T16:21:00.000-04:002008-04-25T16:46:20.478-04:00Plant Disappointments"Your tastes will mature," said a co-worker to me one day. I was complaining about some plant or another and swearing up and down that I'd never enjoy that particular tree/shrub. Over time my tastes have changed, but there are still many plants that fit into the category of "Disappointing."<br /><br />My biggest plant gripe is with fad plants. At one point it was anything in the Amelanchier species. Yes, a nice native plant that doesn't get overwhelmingly large, flowers, and has fall color. It will tolerate city conditions and fits well into a small garden. Sounds good. In nature, it's a great plant. The flowers will cover the tree turning it into a fluffy cloud of white. The flowers don't last all that long, but in spring we'll take what we can get. The foliage varies in quality and can range from yellows to oranges to reds. These trees also produce fruit for birds. Excellent, you want one, right? So what's my problem with these plants? Well, I like them enough in the wild, but there are so many other plants that offer far more. There was a time at the nursery when rabid customers would arrive in droves to see this miracle plant their landscape architect had recommended and then they'd take one look and say, "Is that all?" The fad surrounding the plant was far greater than the plant itself. Would I own one? Sure. Would it be the centerpiece of my small garden? No. I've also seen what happens when these trees mature and they can be some pretty gnarly ugly things. They're pretty in flower and the fall foliage is nice, but the rest of the year they're a Gothic mess.<br /><br />Hosta "Great Expectations" was all the rage one year. Sure it looked interesting and I was hoping to have one. A co-worker and I were given plants to test out in our yards. Before long the expectations turned into frustrations as the plant just sat there in the garden. Other hostas nearby chugged right along, but Great Expectations just sat, expectantly. After about 3 seasons of being the same exact size, it disappeared. My co-worker had a similar experience with the plant. According to a grower we'd talked to, the plant was having issues. Tissue cultured versions of the plant just weren't growing and there were so many of these plants on the market because it had a sudden explosion of popularity. If you could find a plant divided from a healthy parent, things might turn out different. I expected more than this and decided to skip getting another.<br /><br />Of course, there are plants I've changed my mind about. Witch Hazels, for example. Hated them to pieces when I first saw them. They were gangly, yellow, and their leaves were unimpressive. Over time, however, I realized that there was more than just yellow, the plants could be beautiful in the right location, and the fact that I saw them flowering in January in southern Rhode Island sure made them more appealing. Even the native "virginiana" is an interesting plant that flowers far later than other blooming plants. The forests in New England are full of them. Sure, they're a common yellow and the flowers are small, but some years they're holding onto flowers near Thanksgiving. <br /><br />Have my tastes matured? Somewhat. I'm more willing to give plants a second look now, although I still haven't changed my mind about many others (which I'll discuss later). Native plants hold more interest for me now, especially since a number of them are quite hardy. Will I rush out to buy the new Echinacea or Hydrangea? Probably not. I'll wait and see how nature deals with these introductions before I decide whether or not they'll appear in my garden.<br /><br />Recommended Plant of the Day: Erianthus ravenna. If you're looking for an ornamental grass that becomes a beast, this is the one for you. It's a reed-like grass that reaches 12-15 feet or so. The seed heads are whitish/silver and look a bit like pampas grass. It's native to southern Europe, but is hardy to zone 5. I've seen a stand of it growing and didn't think much of it at first, until the seed heads started growing so much higher than the clumps. Plant it as a specimen plant by itself, or put it in as a summer screen.Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-83892365403773311302008-03-08T08:31:00.001-05:002008-11-15T04:41:34.338-05:00Addictions<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXzfpy1XXVU8jV-lLa5CewZmQt82J5kycK1J0dyo40lgEvTbkyvXyTmTUFDiS_ZHAb4zP4DlQ_pmWjkdKoUu19YR3MmzFnS2fFLlFfPtIUc0kQXcRjZSijedTT3AZ1JjOP8nf4QSAvg04W/s1600-h/Hemerocallis+Now+And+Zen.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5175371361900373442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXzfpy1XXVU8jV-lLa5CewZmQt82J5kycK1J0dyo40lgEvTbkyvXyTmTUFDiS_ZHAb4zP4DlQ_pmWjkdKoUu19YR3MmzFnS2fFLlFfPtIUc0kQXcRjZSijedTT3AZ1JjOP8nf4QSAvg04W/s200/Hemerocallis+Now+And+Zen.jpg" border="0" /></a> Hemerocallis "Now and Zen"<br /></div><br /><div>With spring impending, thoughts turn to green growing things. At times, this desire for green becomes obsessive. Some might say it turns to addiction. I once worked with a woman who thought nothing of spending $200.00 on perennials at each and every garden center she visited. Now, the money wasn't spent on creating massive drifts of flowers. Instead, she focused on unusual plants and plants more challenging to grow. Double flowering <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">trilliums</span> ended up being a multi-year obsession. She'd purchase three, two would not survive the year, and the next spring she'd try again. I'm not sure I could tolerate the heartache of losing such a beautiful plant time and again.<br />The addictions didn't end with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">trillums</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Hostas</span> and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">daylilies</span> figured prominently in her garden cart everywhere she went. Usually, these plants were the newest introductions or rare hybrids. Often times, she'd try and talk the grower into digging up a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">daylily</span> that wasn't yet for sale. More often than not, they'd relent and dig out a fan. Shopping with her was an amazing trip and the kind of behavior I swore I'd never engage in. "I'll never become a plant addict like THAT," I'd foolishly say to myself.<br />The past couple years my addiction has been <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">daylilies</span>. Vacation trips have been impacted by a wish to visit garden centers or growers. Last summer it was <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Olallie</span> Day Lily Gardens in South <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Newfane</span>, Vermont. It's just a short drive from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Brattleboro</span>, where my partner and I were vacationing, and was a grower I'd wanted to visit for a while. Luckily, I was limited by the contents of my wallet and so came home with a far less damaging amount greens than possible. "Bayou Bride" and "Mystical Rainbow" had caught my eye, along with a long list of others. There was one, however, that I'd had regrets about. It was a tall reddish purple <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">daylily</span> called "<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Katahdin</span>." I'd walk around the growing fields time and again and come back to this plant. I hemmed and hawed and then finally decided to show some restraint. I left with the plants as "<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Katahdin's</span>" flowers waved with an air of melancholy in the rear view mirror.<br />This year I discovered a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">daylily</span> auction site online. It's quite dangerous as I could easily lose an entire paycheck to these auctions. So far, I've ordered just two plants. There's a grower in Maine (near where I like to visit when traveling there) who offered up "Now and Zen" and also "<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">Katahdin</span>." I remembered fondly my time last summer and vowed to win the auction. Luckily I was the only person bidding on the plant and managed to win it handily. So, my "<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Katahdin</span>" saga has finally come to a satisfying end.<br />My addiction is under control. I hope. But there's a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">daylily</span> farm in New York I might want to visit this summer and I can always go back to Tranquil Lake or <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">Olallie</span>. Looks like I'd better do some garden expanding this spring, just in case. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Visit: <a href="http://www.daylilygarden.com/">http://www.daylilygarden.com/</a></div><br /><div>Find Addiction At: <a href="http://www.daylily.com/cgi-bin/auction.cgi">http://www.daylily.com/cgi-bin/auction.cgi</a></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Recommended Plant of the Day: Since I've been talking about daylilies it's only fair that I recommend one. I've had Hemerocallis "Coburg Fright Wig" for quite some time. The poor thing was in a neglected part of the yard and I didn't notice the flowers. Then I moved it to a newer garden area and last year it produced amazing blooms. Not only were they colorful, they were huge. The base color is yellow, but every other petal has a red tip. Given the size of the flower, it puts on quite a show. This is a "spider" day lily, which means the flower petals are long like fingers. It's an excellent addition to any daylily collection.</div><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0SePNG85bE4Au7v2y2KfBeZ8LEfLejrBq5iyIl4uUwpNPBfizbehPRzqbuEsZBprQblQMZYHvlvpl9sLOzrQbllsacFgUh7QAly-OVNeBp8chWH9Go2muVhw-STgHbvU7KkGJrQPi5hxO/s1600-h/Coburg+Fright+Wig.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0SePNG85bE4Au7v2y2KfBeZ8LEfLejrBq5iyIl4uUwpNPBfizbehPRzqbuEsZBprQblQMZYHvlvpl9sLOzrQbllsacFgUh7QAly-OVNeBp8chWH9Go2muVhw-STgHbvU7KkGJrQPi5hxO/s200/Coburg+Fright+Wig.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5175374278183167474" /></a> Coburg Fright WigBlack Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-76417888532834267222008-02-22T15:49:00.001-05:002008-02-22T16:58:19.608-05:00LilacsIt's snowing once again so it's the perfect time to discuss lilacs. Oh to smell their perfume and watch their clusters of flowers sway in the breeze.<br /><br />Lilacs are a personal favorite of mine (favorite of mine is a phrase you'll be reading frequently). At first I was tempted by the scent and the memories of spring they bring about. Then I was drawn in by the numerous flower colors they offer. But once I started meeting them at the garden center and planting them in my own yard I discovered their best quality: durability. Yes, the scent is nice, but their ability to thrive in just about any soil and survive dry summers is even more important. <br /><br />This conclusion came about when I was working for a garden center. I'd always liked lilacs and found myself drawn in by the different types offered. Syringa vulgaris Sensation, was one of the first with its purple/white edged flowers. Then of course there was my attraction and subsequent disappointment with Syringa vulgaris Primrose. But one year, I discovered the lilac's tenacity and determination to survive. A landscaper had ordered a number of lilacs and never came to pick up his order. The poor plants were abandoned in the holding area; pushed further and further to the back as new orders were brought in. Then in August, I came across them while cleaning out plants and orders. The poor things had once been nicely dug and their roots/soil wrapped in burlap. Not any more. The burlap had rotted and the root balls were falling apart. The plants themselves, however, didn't seem to notice the indignity. I corralled them all and decided I would buy/rescue them and plant a hedge in the yard. At the time I wasn't sure how well they would do or if they'd even survive the experience.<br /><br />Imagine my surprise when these plants not only survived, but thrived. There's a row of these lilacs planted next to a fairly busy road and sidewalk. It's a hot and dry exposure. The soil in this area has a heavy sand content (from back when the yard was a parking lot for horses and carriages) and receives sun all day long. The plants grow and flower with little in the way of attention and they always amaze me with their durability. <br /><br />There are lilacs elsewhere in the yard, including an ancient stand of white common lilacs that came with the house. Exactly how old these lilacs are is unclear, but they perform well each season even with a Philadelphus attempting to take over. There had been others planted near it including more whites and a common purple, but this one is the only one to survive the competition from giant maples in the back yard.<br /><br />Generally, lilacs enjoy sweet soil. Sprinkling some lime around them every couple years will be appreciated. Regular garden soil is fine for them although as I've discovered they tolerate all kinds of soil conditions. Sunlight is of utmost importance. Without it they will fail to flower and will readily contract the dreaded powdery mildew. The only other thing lilacs will not tolerate is wet feet, so planting them in a wet area is not advised. Not only will the plant fail to thrive, it will contract powdery mildew far more readily in damp locations. Fertilizing in the spring with a balanced fertilizer is fine (10-10-10 or 8-8-8 or any slow release fertilizer without a high first number).<br /><br />Pruning lilacs is a bit more tricky, especially if you're worried about flowers. If not, then pruning in the early spring is best. An older plant can be cut back by 1/3 each year, with the removal of the largest thickest trunks, to promote lush new growth. If the lilac is especially overgrown, it can be cut back to the ground in the early spring with a reasonable chance for a full recovery. In order to preserve flower buds, prune the lilac right after it flowers. Remove any spent flower heads and trim out any branches that interfere with each other. Aim to open up the interior of the shrub to help with air flow and prevent powdery mildew. Of course, damaged or dead branches can be removed at any time.<br /><br />Along with being especially tough, lilacs have few pests. Lilac borer can be a problem with some plants (for some reason, they like one of my Sensation lilacs). The insect is easily spotted because it leaves large exit holes in the trunk of the plant. Most lilacs will survive the insect, but become weakened by repeated infestations. As for diseases, lilacs are prone to powdery mildew and dieback caused by fungus. The mildew is not usually life threatening to the plant. The dieback can be, however. The tips of the plant will wilt, blacken and die and slowly this death will work down into the plant. At first it appears that the plant is thirsty, yet this is brought about by too much water combined with a fungus called Verticillium. This is an easy thing to identify as when you cut back the drooping growth you'll notice a brown/purple ring inside the stem. Improving drainage around the plant or backing off on watering will help the plant recover. Trim out any infected branches. Most often I've seen this wilt occur when the plants are too close to an automatic sprinkler system or planted in an area where water collects (near down spouts for example). <br /><br />So, you're interested in lilacs, which ones will you look for? My list starts off with a group of vulgaris cultivars. Katherine Havemeyer has a wonderful scent and lavender-pink flowers. Lucie Baltet is a personal favorite of mine. The flower clusters are smaller than on most lilacs, but the buds start off a coppery-pink color and then the flowers open pink. It's an unusual color, especially when seen with other lilacs. President Lincoln is a fantastic grower and has single blue flowers. It's one of the most prolific bloomers I have, out flowering others planted nearby. Sensation has purple flowers with a white edge, but almost no scent. Sensation tends to be a but rangy in its growth habits too, but I still enjoy it. Krasavitsa Moskvy or Beauty of Moscow is an excellent white. The buds are pinkish but open a creamy white. Last but not least is Monge. It has wine-red/purple flowers. Not the darkest purple I've seen, but certainly the most interesting. The growth habit has been more shrubby than the others and it tends to send up lots of sucker growth. This is fine, as I can dig up the youngsters and share them with fellow gardeners.<br /><br />One other option, which isn't part of the Syringa vulgaris list above, would be Syringa chinensis. This shrubby lilac becomes as wide as high (about 8 feet or so) and throws off a tremendous number of flowers. They are smaller than on the vulgaris cultivars and the color is the commonly seen pink-lavender, but it is certainly a plant worth having.<br /><br />There are also French hybrids, which flower later than the vulgaris cultivars. I'm not as familiar with these plants, as I prefer the "classic" lilacs. If you're looking to extend bloom time, these are excellent options.<br /><br />Previously I'd mentioned Primrose. I have a love-hate relationship with this plant. On the one hand, I'd love to find a true yellow lilac. On the other hand, Primrose is often promoted as being yellow...but it really isn't. The buds start out a creamy yellow color but when the flowers open they open creamy white. Yes, if you put something white behind/near the flower it does have a yellowish cast...if you squint...and the light is just right. In my mind, the color is reminiscent of certain brands of vanilla ice cream. Certainly not worth going out of the way for.<br /><br />So, with the snow falling steadily, and the lilacs out in the yard slumbering away one can think towards spring and scent and green.<br /><br />Recommended Plant of the Day: Hydrangea quercifolia. An excellent hydrangea for shadier spots it produces large panicles of white flowers. The leaves are large and look like oak leaves--hence the common name "Oak Leaf Hydrangea." Now on most hydrangeas, the flowers are the best feature. This plant, however, offers up excellent fall foliage and interesting bark that peels off. Once cooler weather hits, the foliage turns various shades of yellow, rust, red, burgundy...all rich fall colors and all on the same plant. Some years the flowers will hold on for quite some time, turning a pinkish shade in the process, and still show when the foliage turns. There are various hybrids out there which are all worth trying, but the standard Oak Leaf is an excellent choice on its own. For more information visit: <a href="http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/oakleaf.html">http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/oakleaf.html</a><br /><br />For more information on lilacs visit: <a href="http://www.arboretum.harvard.edu/plants/lilac_sunday.html">http://www.arboretum.harvard.edu/plants/lilac_sunday.html</a><br /><br />If you're looking for a source for lilacs I recommend:<br /><a href="http://www.lilacs.com/">http://www.lilacs.com/</a>Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1088800919445836596.post-86156827407617512782008-02-19T11:45:00.001-05:002008-02-19T12:22:39.915-05:00The Anticipation of SpringIt's been a snowy, rainy, icy winter here in Massachusetts. Now that February is quickly departing, Spring must be arriving soon. I can tell that winter has lasted too long as I've begun looking through gardening catalogs and websites with many sighs and thoughts of warm workable soil. The snowdrops in the warmer part of the garden have begun flowering but the Hellebores haven't shown much activity yet. Snowdrops are one of my favorite bulbs. They're easy to grow, multiply without dividing, and tolerate all kinds of growing conditions. Today brings about some warm(ish) dry weather which means I'll begin cleaning up broken branches and clearing out the horrible bittersweet, Celastrus orbiculatus, that keeps turning up in the yard.<br /><br />Invasive plants are a topic I've had an interest in for quite some time. Bittersweet and I have a long and antagonistic relationship. Once I think we've finally broken up for good, its sprung up somewhere else and grown far faster than any plant has a right to. Added to this list is the infamous Black Walnut, Jugluns nigra. Ok, ok, it's not on any invasive plant lists that I've seen, but its managed to become a major thug in the yard. Squirrels bury the nuts and before long there are seedlings all over the place. Cut down a seedling, turn around, and suddenly it has sprouted new leaves and shows a determination to survive similar to the bittersweet. Last, but not least, is the truly nasty Rosa multiflora. I have no idea where this first turned up in the yard, but it has made such a pest of itself I'm about ready to pour gasoline on any stems I find and light a match. It's quite pretty when it flowers and the hips are excellent in wreaths but beyond that the plant is downright nasty. Oh, I suppose the birds enjoy hiding in it and I'm sure the berries provide a nutritious food source, but I've had enough. So, the major tasks this spring include dealing with the invasives.<br /><br />While the invasives are thriving in the yard the same cannot be said for plants I pay money for. I've managed to kill numerous perennials, shrubs and trees. The poor things think they're gaining a safe home and I manage to put them in the wrong place or forget to water them. In other cases, they just mysteriously fail to thrive. While working with customers I'd suggest that plants are very much like children, more often than not they don't turn out like you'd hope. So although I enjoy plants and can spend all kinds of money on additions to the garden, I do not have a 100% success rate.<br /><br />Recommended Plant of the Day: Each post I'll recommend a plant that I've grown and enjoyed or one I've experienced in the trade and have wanted to grow.<br />So, for this entry I recommend: Epimedium grandiflorum "White Queen." Epimediums are fantastic perennials. They tolerate dry shade, have few problems with insects or disease, and spread fairly rapidly. Additionally, they divide easily to be shared with friends. "White Queen" has proven especially tolerant of my garden. The flowers are showy and far larger than other Epimediums. They have massive spurs, reminicient of Columbines and the light green leaves always look fresh.Black Cat Gardeninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12281691262930260074noreply@blogger.com0